Victor Garvey's MATER1A: A Willy Wonka-esque Theatre of Gastronomy in Notting Hill
After fifteen years of reviewing restaurants, one begins to discern the overarching patterns and trends that shape the hospitality industry. These trends reflect societal shifts, from the maximalist luxury of pre-financial crash eras to the austere precision that followed, and the widespread adoption of sharing concepts during economic downturns. Victor Garvey's new Japanese-inspired restaurant, MATER1A, boldly defies all these conventions.
A Chef's Ambitious Return
Following a challenging year that saw his tenure at the vast Midland Grand end after just six months, chef Victor Garvey—the mind behind Michelin-starred Sola in Soho—has returned with a vengeance. MATER1A is a Willy Wonka-esque theatre of gastronomy, serving exclusively tasting menus that can span 20 or more courses. Located at 115 Westbourne Grove, W2 4UP, a mere ten-minute walk from Notting Hill station, this establishment further cements the area's reputation as a fine-dining powerhouse.
The restaurant's name, variously referred to as Materia (Latin for physical matter), Materia Prima (the formless substance from which the universe was born), and the Google-friendly MATER1A (possibly the chef's license plate), hints at its philosophical underpinnings. Like Simon Rogan's "development kitchen" Aulis, MATER1A's facade is deliberately understated, marked only by a triangular, Illuminati-esque logo above the door.
The Immersive Dining Experience
Upon finding the entrance—a task that might involve a few minutes of wandering outside nearby Cafe Nero—diners are greeted by the Corridor of Ingredients. This space is flanked by plinths displaying the ingredients to be featured in the meal: ginger, cacao, yuzu, grapes, and more, each presented and captioned like religious artefacts. From Golden Kombu from Hokkaido to a sprig of Japanese Maple from Lewes, the corridor sets the stage for what lies below.
The ambiance is enhanced by a soundtrack of Hans Zimmer-esque drones and Nils Frahm synths, blending ambient club music with high-end spa vibes, all curated by a live DJ stationed in a corner. As guests take their seats in the tiny, dark-panelled dining room—which accommodates just 16—a waiter announces, "Outside doesn't exist anymore." On each table rests an envelope with a wax seal bearing the MATER1A insignia, a combination of alchemical symbols according to Garvey.
The Cryptic Menu and Culinary Wonders
Inside the envelope is not a traditional menu but a series of cryptic crossword clues hinting at the dishes to come. One listing, "February (In 5 bites)," comprises five separate dishes, while another is simply referred to as "Sawara (Elderflower)." However, the only real choice diners face is between the 11-course menu (£169) or the 21-course menu (£214). Opting for the former, this reviewer counted at least 15 courses, each a minor marvel of physics and gastronomy.
The meal begins with an ephemeral, transparent bowl of agar noodles in a consommé of Sicilian Marinda tomatoes, prized for their winter seasonality. It is light as a cloud, subtle as a whisper, and as beguiling as a lover's breath on the skin. Another standout is a stunning little tower of vivid pink Mr. Tanaka's Tuna tartare—named after a Portugal-based Japanese fisherman—with yuzu jelly and topped with an olive oil pearl. This dish, arguably the most beautiful eaten this year, is served inside a hollow sushi rice "macaron" perched on a bed of brown seeds within a marble square.
Slices of sardine are presented in a tiny cup made from pressed sardines, delivering a condensed hit of the ocean that captures the essence of something freshly dragged from icy depths. Vivid orange sea urchins, at the end of their season for extra sweetness and fat, are served in a nori case molded into the shape of a sea urchin shell, atop lobster and roasted chicken gel—an absurd detail easily missed if one isn't paying attention.
Highlight Dishes and Flavor Explorations
The suckling pig "oden," a reinterpretation of classic Japanese street food, emerges as perhaps the dish of the evening. It features an exceptional sliver of pork belly topped with daikon and quail egg, drizzled with a broth simmered for 48 hours to achieve an impossibly rich, deep umami flavor. Served in a bowl with a teat on one side, it is designed to be chugged like a child's sippy-cup.
Smoked eel topped with grated foie gras presents a brave, almost reckless combination of flavors, encased in a "pastry" made from milk skin—a term used approximately due to the lack of existing descriptors. This dish attacks from all angles: the smoky kick of the eel, the buttery slick of foie gras, and a faint lactose taste from the milk skin.
The culinary journey continues with banger after banger: duck stuffed with "forbidden rice," langoustine with toasted rice drizzled with the juice from its own head, and salmon roe in sake jelly. Devising such a menu is likened to conducting an epic symphony, with Garvey acting as a kitchen dominatrix, drip-feeding pleasure throughout the evening to keep diners on the edge without overwhelming them.
The Grand Finale
In this strained metaphor, dessert serves as the climax. Two offerings include strawberries that have been crisped, moussed, and transformed into sorbet through experimental techniques that might contravene the Geneva Convention, and a chocolate tarte soufflé that, while delightful, leaves one at a loss for further description due to its sheer complexity.
MATER1A represents what Victor Garvey does best: being in the kitchen, creating mad, ambitious, and complex dishes. With probably only two dozen chefs worldwide cooking at this level, MATER1A offers a rare opportunity to sample genuinely new combinations of flavor and texture. It is a place where gastronomic theatre meets culinary innovation, inviting diners to leave the outside world behind and immerse themselves in an unforgettable experience.
