In an era where cafes increasingly favour minimalist decor and artisan prices, the classic British greasy spoon stands as a beloved, if fading, institution. A recent visit to one of London's most enduring examples, Andrew's Restaurant on Gray's Inn Road, served as a potent reminder of what these timeless eateries do best: delivering hearty, affordable comfort food without pretence.
A Step Back in Time on Gray's Inn Road
Stepping into Andrew's Restaurant is akin to entering a culinary time capsule. Having served its local community for over 50 years, the interior remains reassuringly unchanged. Wood-panelled walls meet plain white paint, and simple wooden tables are packed closely together, creating a bustling, no-frills atmosphere reminiscent of a classic 1980s café. On a cold January morning, the place was full to capacity, a testament to its enduring popularity.
The £10.80 Breakfast Feast
The menu at Andrew's is a greasy spoon purist's dream, centred around set breakfasts ranging from £8.90 to £10.70. The star offering is the Full English Breakfast or 'Andrew's Breakfast' for £10.80, which includes a fried egg, bacon, sausage, two hash browns (or an extra egg and sausage), mushrooms, toast, and a hot drink. Service is remarkably swift, with a plate laden with food arriving in about five minutes.
The meal itself is unapologetically substantial. The sausages are thick and flavourful, the bacon is fried to a perfect softness, and the mushrooms are generously portioned. The fried eggs, with slightly runny yolks, are ideal for dipping the buttery toast, and the whole affair is accompanied by a familiar sea of baked beans. It's a builder's breakfast in the truest sense, designed to satisfy and fortify.
What Modern Cafés Have Forgotten
The experience at Andrew's highlights a stark contrast with today's prevailing café culture. Here, there is no pressure to sit upright on sleek furniture; slouching over a milky coffee is still a pleasure. The focus is squarely on speed, value, and hearty sustenance, not Instagrammable interiors or single-origin brews. The coffee itself is unashamedly traditional—milky and straightforward—catering to a specific, loyal clientele.
This is not a venue for leisurely lounging with a laptop. The high turnover of customers encourages a brisk, efficient pace. You eat, you enjoy, and you make room for the next person. In doing so, Andrew's preserves a vital piece of London's social fabric, offering a warm, affordable refuge and a plate of delicious, uncomplicated food. It proves that some traditions, especially those involving perfectly cooked bacon and soggy toast for dipping, are worth preserving.
Andrew's Restaurant is located at 59 Gray's Inn Road, London.
