Kokum: East Dulwich's Affordable Alternative to Michelin-Starred Indian Cuisine
For Londoners craving the indulgent flavors of Michelin-starred Indian restaurants like Gymkhana but without the celebrity price tag, Kokum in East Dulwich offers a brilliant solution. Founded by Sanjay Gour, former head chef at the renowned Gymkhana, this neighborhood gem delivers the same culinary excellence in a far more casual and affordable setting.
From Michelin Stars to Neighborhood Favorite
While Gymkhana boasts two Michelin stars and attracts celebrities like Charli XCX with its wild venison biryani and Las Vegas expansion, Kokum brings that expertise to Zone 2 with dishes priced under ten pounds. The restaurant occupies a spacious ex-pub with white-washed walls, wood paneling, and abundant pot plants, creating a relaxed atmosphere perfect for everything from casual dinners to family introductions.
The massive dining room regularly echoes with delivery order bells as heavy bags shuttle to the door for home feasting. While takeaway is available, the full Kokum experience is best enjoyed at a table, starting with crisp papad accompanied by creamy tempered yogurt and gloriously sticky mango chutney.
A Feast of Flavors Without the Financial Strain
The menu showcases high-end Indian cuisine spanning Pakistani and Punjabi classics. Golden, deep-fried Amritsari fish nuggets served with garlic-coriander dip offer pub-snack perfection, while sweet chat with a samosa center provides crispy contrast. Both dishes disappear quickly, testament to their quality and value.
Standout mains include a Kashmiri-chilli marinated lamb cutlet with perfect pink interior, elegant enough for fashion week yet served with delicate pink pickled onions. The giant lamb shank nihari, slow-cooked to collagen-rich perfection, maintains daintiness despite its size. It pairs beautifully with creamy, almost fruity butter chicken, while baingan bharta (aubergine mash) offers a savory vegetarian counterpoint to the meat-focused feast.
More Than Just Dinner
Kokum functions as a culinary Swiss Army knife for the neighborhood. The terrace accommodates pints and desi pub snacks, while Sundays feature traditional roasts. The drink menu complements the food with spiced cocktails like the clarified mirchi margarita, alongside Kingfisher lager and a respectable wine selection.
For aspiring home chefs, Kokum regularly hosts curry masterclasses, allowing diners to recreate restaurant-quality meals in their own kitchens. This educational component adds another layer to the restaurant's community-focused approach.
Located at 58-60 E Dulwich Road, Kokum proves that exceptional Indian cuisine needn't come with exclusive prices or celebrity crowds. By combining Gymkhana-level expertise with neighborhood accessibility, it has become East Dulwich's go-to destination for indulgent yet affordable dining experiences.
