In a move that symbolises the ongoing transformation of one of London's most famous districts, a celebrated Northern Thai restaurant has taken over the premises that once housed Soho's last remaining adult cinema. Khao Bird, which began as a pop-up in Borough Market, has now established a permanent home on Brewer Street, occupying a space steeped in the area's more salacious history.
The Changing Face of Soho
The closure of the late-night cinema represents the latest chapter in Soho's gradual shift from its notorious past. Once known for its vibrant, if somewhat seedy, nightlife encompassing drinking dens, brothels, and adult entertainment venues, the area has increasingly welcomed upmarket chains, boutique coffee shops, and high-end dining establishments. While some mourn the loss of what they see as an irreplaceable part of London's cultural fabric, others welcome the new wave of gastronomic offerings.
The restaurant scene in Soho, while still notable, faces stiff competition from neighbouring districts like Fitzrovia, Shoreditch, and Mayfair. The arrival of Khao Bird adds a significant and exciting contender to the local culinary landscape, joining the ranks of other esteemed venues.
From Brighton Pop-Up to Soho Permanent
Khao Bird was founded by Mike Palmer and head chef Luke Larsson, evolving from their earlier venture, Lucky Khao, which started in Brighton. The restaurant's name derives from the Thai word for rice, khao. The team has brought their expertise in Northern Thai flavours to the heart of the capital, creating a dining experience that is both adventurous and deeply satisfying.
On a Friday evening, the restaurant possesses a mischievous, intimate atmosphere. Dim, neon lighting and close-set tables give it the feel of a hidden Dalston nightclub, attracting a young, fashionable crowd. It captures a certain Soho spirit, albeit one filtered through a contemporary lens.
A Culinary Adventure on Brewer Street
The menu at Khao Bird is designed for sharing, featuring an array of small and large plates that can make ordering a delightful challenge. The knowledgeable and enthusiastic waiting staff are on hand to guide diners through the offerings, each dish described with palpable passion.
Standout dishes from the menu include the cola-glazed shan meatballs. Wrapped in caul (a stomach membrane) and barbecued, they arrive glistening with a flavourful, greasy sheen, topped with crispy garlic and ginger. Another highlight is the mutton chips, fried multiple times and served with a generous, fiercely spicy mutton curry—a bold statement against the ubiquity of triple-cooked chips.
Embracing the Heat
For those seeking a true test, the beef and campari larb is a must-try. This dish, akin to a steak tartare, is infused with mah kwan, a Northern Thai spice related to Sichuan pepper, known for its mouth-numbing and intensely hot properties. The waitstaff's earnest warnings about its ferocious heat are well-founded, delivering a sweating, tongue-tingling experience that is as memorable as it is delicious.
For a slightly more forgiving option, the barbecue chicken, marinated in lemongrass and perfectly crisped over charcoal, offers fabulous flavour without overwhelming spice. It pairs excellently with the rich and moreish bone marrow rice, a dish that exemplifies the kitchen's skill with hearty, comforting elements.
A New Chapter for a Historic Location
Dining in the space, one cannot help but reflect on its previous incarnation. The very spot now occupied by tables and chairs once hosted a very different kind of audience. While the loss of the cinema may represent the fading of old Soho, Khao Bird offers a compelling new reason to visit. It is a restaurant that feels both exciting and comforting, a labour of love from a team unafraid to take risks with authentic, powerful flavours.
The transformation from adult cinema to top-tier restaurant may be a potent sign of the times, but if the quality of the food and experience at Khao Bird is anything to go by, it is a change that many London diners will enthusiastically embrace.
