A recent article from The Spinoff, a New Zealand publication, has ignited a culinary debate by claiming that the sausage sizzle—a beloved snack in Australia—was actually invented in New Zealand. This assertion challenges Australia's long-held belief that the sausage sizzle is a cornerstone of its street food culture.
The Great Sausage Sizzle Debate
The sausage sizzle, typically consisting of a thin sausage wrapped in a slice of white bread with cooked onions, is a staple at Australian school fairs, markets, and hardware stores like Bunnings. Anni Turnbull, a curator at the Powerhouse Museum specializing in Australian culinary history, describes democracy sausages—sold outside polling booths on election day—as an edible symbol of a fair go.
Historical Evidence
The earliest documented use of the term "sausage sizzle" in Australia dates back to 1946, when the Forbes Junior Country Women's Association organized a "Full Moon Sausage Sizzle" to raise non-perishable supplies for post-war recovery efforts in England. However, New Zealand's first recorded use of the phrase occurred four years earlier, in 1942, when Beryl Menzies hosted a "Popular Girl sausage sizzle" to raise funds for wartime charities.
Barbara Santich, author of Bold Palates: Australia's Gastronomic Heritage, acknowledges that New Zealand's claim is not without merit. However, she notes that Australia was holding similar events under the American term "barbecue." Jacqui Newling, a culinary historian at the Museums of History NSW, adds, "Often it's not who did it first, it's who wrote it down first."
Earlier Events Without the Name
An event in Australia that embodied the spirit of a sausage sizzle, though not the name, was reported in 1939. Referred to as a "sausage buffet," it was part of a Guy Fawkes celebration in Adelaide, raising funds for the Winston Dugan camp. While the news clipping describes "sausages sizzling," Newling argues that a buffet is not the same as a sizzle, emphasizing the importance of terminology. Turnbull concurs, envisioning a table filled with sausages and jelly when she hears "sausage buffet."
Democracy Sausages: An Australian Tradition
Australians can confidently claim the democracy sausage as their own. In New Zealand, election day sausage sandwiches are less common and are typically offered for free by community groups. However, the New Zealand government has enforced a ban on free food within 100 meters of polling booths, making the tradition less prevalent.
Shared Cultural Heritage
Newling appreciates how these debates highlight the commonalities between Australia and New Zealand. Both nations share a unique antipodean tradition of serving sausages on a slice of bread rather than a roll, and sausage sizzles play a key role in building community. "You don't go out and have a sausage sizzle on your own," Newling says.
While this culinary squabble is unlikely to be the last, Newling believes it keeps shared food heritage alive. "I think it's a really lovely thing."
