Chef and food writer Georgina Hayden embarks on a culinary tour of Crete's Lassithi region, celebrating its family-run tavernas, village bakeries, and exceptional local produce. The island's culinary tradition, as old as its ancient olive trees, offers a deeply authentic Greek experience.
First Evening at Karnagio
For their first evening, Hayden and her husband dine at Karnagio in Agios Nikolaos, a 10-minute drive from their hotel. Despite a warning from Dimitri, the hotel manager, they order extensively. Starters include dakos (barley rusks with tomato, olive oil, and mizithra cheese) and mizithropitakia (cheese pies). Mains feature fava with spring onions, horta (wild greens), and sauteed lamb with local pasta and torched anthotyro cheese. The meal concludes with complimentary sweets and raki, shared with the waiter.
Morning at Evotry Bakery
The next morning, they drive 30 minutes southeast to Evotry, a roadside bakery run by Stefanos and his wife Maria. The bakery offers cakes, biscuits, and trahana (fermented cracked wheat). Stefanos uses petimezi (grape molasses) instead of refined sugar in kalitsounia (sweet cheese pies). They purchase a box of kalitsounia and cookies, regretting hand luggage only.
Detour to a 3,000-Year-Old Olive Tree
En route to Mochlos, they detour to see a 3,000-year-old olive tree in the mountains. Sitting beneath its branches, they eat the kalitsounia, surrounded by birdsong.
Lunch at Ta Kochilia in Mochlos
In Mochlos, a fishing village, they lunch at Ta Kochilia, a waterfront taverna. They order grilled squid, horiatiki (Greek salad), and bread with local olive oil. The meal ends with fruit, halva dusted with cinnamon, and strong Greek coffee.
Cookery Class at Nektaria's Kitchen
After a 10-minute drive into the hills, they visit Nektaria's Kitchen, an open-air cookery school. Nektaria, who left finance four years ago, offers four-hour classes. They sample kalitsounia with orange blossom, spiced melomakarona, and almond honey patouda. A slow-cooked pork joint emerges from the wood oven, enticing them to stay for a meal.
Last Full Day in Kritsa and Olive Oil Tasting
In Kritsa, one of Crete's oldest villages, they visit the women's cooperative, purchasing syrupy pastries and skioufichta pasta. At Mourello, a family-owned olive oil producer, Eleni guides them through a two-hour tasting. The Vedema oil is described as peppery, punchy, and silky.
Final Evening at Xatheri in Kroustas
For their last evening, they dine at Xatheri in Kroustas, 520 meters above sea level. Chef Konstantinos uses recipes from his parents and grandmother. Dishes include dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves), goat stew with spaghettoni and aged graviera cheese, and gamopilafo (wedding rice). Dessert is galaktoboureko (vanilla cream in syrupy filo), followed by dessert wine and raki.
The trip was provided by Simpson Travel, which offers a week at Sand Suites from £1,124 per person B&B, including flights and car hire.
