Carbone London: A Spectacle Worth Experiencing, But Just Once
It is the fundamental role of a restaurant to transport diners far from the mundane realities of everyday life, and despite its notable flaws, Carbone London achieves this with explosive force. As the most anticipated restaurant opening in London since the Chiltern Firehouse, Carbone propels guests into a veritable Garden of Eden through its immersive design and theatrical service.
An Opulent, Hedonistic Atmosphere
The interior is a masterclass in maximalism, featuring rich colour palettes of crimson and burgundy that dominate lavish wall murals, intricate mosaic floors, and plush velvet banquettes. Overhead, draped burgundy cloth adds to the sense of opulence, while Bill Withers' Lovely Day plays softly in the background. Waiters, referred to as 'Captains', sport comically oversized dicky-bow ties, enhancing the playful, otherworldly vibe. The only hint of restraint comes from the stark white tablecloths, a subtle nod to tradition amidst the extravagance.
This hedonistic ambiance, bursting with colour and energy, evokes memories of mushroom shake bars in Thailand, where patrons relax on bean bags in a carefree, communal setting. The decor is so overwhelmingly detailed that the building's historical significance—the basement of the former US embassy—is quickly forgotten, allowing diners to feel utterly detached from their surroundings.
Ruthlessly Curated Luxury
However, this seemingly carefree aesthetic is meticulously managed. Tables are often blocked from popular reservation platforms and reserved for high-net-worth clientele, reflecting an exclusive approach. With a strip steak priced at £144 and reports of customer spending data being tracked to 'curate the room', Carbone London positions itself firmly in the luxury dining sphere. This strategy has attracted A-listers like David and Victoria Beckham, Leonardo DiCaprio, and Kate Moss, drawn by the quirky charm of the bow-tied staff.
Yet, the hype has transcended culinary merits, making the restaurant itself the story. Not content with merely serving celebrities, Carbone competes for media attention, a testament to its cultural impact beyond the plate.
The Culinary Experience: A Mixed Bag
Founded by Mario Carbone, the Italian-American restaurant group opened its first outlet in New York in 2013. The London branch, located within the new Chancery Rosewood Hotel, features some of the world's rarest polished stone underfoot, though the overall decor leans towards beige, contrasting with the vibrant dining room.
Service is charismatic, with waitstaff recycling chummy lines—my Captain was reportedly hired from Chiltern Firehouse—and supersized menus adding to the theatricality. One guest remarked that if World War Three were to occur, they would feel safe here, emphasizing the sense of escapism.
However, the food often disappoints. Dishes like the potatoes Louie, off-menu meatballs, and mushrooms were harshly oversalted on multiple visits. The spicy rigatoni vodka, priced at £29 and hailed as Carbone's great leveller, is nothing special, though the heat sustains nicely. Its presentation—a disappointing dollop on a large white plate—clashes with the maximalist vibe elsewhere.
Orecchiette vito with pesto and rich Italian sausage is tasty but overwhelmingly heavy. Ironically, for a restaurant focusing on comfort food, the fresher options shine: beets siciliana is earthy and fresh, while a lively Caesar salad with oversized croutons and daintily plated slithers of scallops rosmarino offers relief.
The off-menu chicken parm is wholly conventional and indistinguishable from versions half the price. The wagyu ribeye diana, at £108, looks unappealing from above but proves moreish with well-cooked beef, mushrooms, brandy, and mustard sauce, though its richness becomes unbearable halfway through.
Desserts and Final Verdict
Desserts fare better, with an off-menu cherry flambé featuring pistachio, chocolate, and strawberry ice cream delivering joyously kiddish nostalgia. Tableside flambéing enhances the addictive theatrical vibe, and additional treats like cheesecake and chocolate brownie are hard to refuse from the cheery, bow-tied staff.
Should you visit Carbone London? Yes, but likely only once. In an era where experience often trumps substance, the restaurant's electric atmosphere and spectacle outweigh its mid-tier food. It parallels establishments like Wong Kei in Chinatown, which remains jam-packed despite rude service—sometimes, the real currency is marveling at a spectacle.
By the meal's end, I felt lightly nauseous yet mentally uplifted. Carbone is undeniably fun, and I would return, though this review might earn me a strike from Mario Carbone's list. Like the best parties, it cannot and probably should not be recreated, making it a unique, if flawed, addition to London's dining scene.
