Canteen Review: A Fashionable Italian Eatery in Notting Hill
Arriving at the glassy double front doors of Canteen, you might feel artfully transported to the streets of Brooklyn rather than Notting Hill. This sleek pasta-plus bar, with its bold corner location and well-put-together crowd of beautiful people, exudes a New York vibe that sets it apart from typical London dining spots. The food echoes this style, reminiscent of a Williamsburg date night, with playful touches like a 'Name of Chef' printed at the top of the menu instead of the actual chefs' names—former River Cafe cooks Jessica Filbey and Harry Hills.
Vibes and Atmosphere
This in-joke reflects the acceptable gatekeeping also seen in Canteen's no-booking policy, which often leads to queues around the building. A visit here feels like a holiday or a spicy city break, offering an escape from the ordinary. The restaurant is run by the same team behind the Cotswoldian fever dream Fat Badger, located upstairs, as well as other glamorous gastropubs like The Pelican, The Hero in Maida Vale, The Bull in Charlbury, and the newly opened Hart in Marylebone.
While sharing a similar putty-palate and monied cottage-core aesthetic, Canteen distinguishes itself with a friendly jumble of high tables, booths, and counter seating. Two roaring open pizza ovens keep the space supremely toasty, adding to the cozy yet upscale ambiance.
Menu Highlights
The menu is not online and changes regularly, but you can always expect a couple of pizzas and pastas, alongside seasonal starters. For example, a white asparagus dish comes lemony and fresh, topped with a quenelle of ultra funky bottarga. Canteen's snappable pizza is more like a flatbread than the sloppy London slices common elsewhere, featuring a light and joyfully crispy base with nutty asiago cheese, blushing folds of pink speck cotto, and fragrant rosemary.
Ravioli is equally impressive, dotted with plump peas and generous pancetta, hidden under a snowstorm of parmesan. However, both dishes are overshadowed by a god-tier secondi of chicken cooked in lemon, milk, and sage. This simple-sounding dish boasts super succulent meat and pathologically crispy skin, making it an elementary triumph worth celebrating.
Dessert and Drinks
Since opening, Canteen has gained fame for its 'viral' chocolate mousse. While we're not huge fans of viral trends, it's easy to see why this off-menu pudding, lashed with olive oil and sea salt, has achieved TikTok notoriety—it's bloody delicious. The drink menu complements the food with Negronis, martinis, and big pours of Italian wine, perfect for pairing with your meal.
Practical Details
The vibe: A casual but upmarket New York-style Italian restaurant in Notting Hill.
The food: Thin, crispy pizza, perfect pasta, and meaty mains.
The drink: Negronis, martinis, and big pours of Italian wine.
Time Out tip: They don't take bookings, so arrive earlier than you'd like to eat to get your name on the waitlist.
Located at 310 Portobello Road, Notting Hill, London W10 5TA, Canteen is open Monday to Saturday from 12-3pm and 5-10pm, and Sunday from 12-4pm and 6-9pm. Whether you're seeking a trendy spot for a date night or a cozy meal with friends, Canteen delivers an unforgettable dining experience that blends Italian flavors with a touch of New York flair.
