Calong: A Michelin-Trained Chef's Korean Fusion Masterpiece in Stoke Newington
In the heart of Stoke Newington, a new culinary star has emerged, blending Korean heritage with European technique in a space designed for romance. Calong, the brainchild of former Galvin at Windows head chef Joo Young Won, offers a dining experience that swaps Mayfair's oligarchian rooftops for the bustling Buggy Mile, yet loses none of its sophistication.
From Park Lane Heights to Church Street Charm
Chef Joo Young Won once commanded the kitchens at the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows, perched 28 floors above Belgravia with panoramic views of Hyde Park. His new venture, Calong, presents a decidedly different vista: directly opposite a Whole Foods branch on Stoke Newington Church Street. But what it lacks in skyline drama, it more than compensates for with intimate ambiance and culinary artistry.
The restaurant's front room-esque space is cosy and thoughtfully simple, featuring wall-mounted coat hooks reminiscent of St John, a chalkboard menu, exposed brick fire surround, and an abundance of two-top tables that evoke the familiar setting of a popular dating show. This is unmistakably a venue crafted for connection, with food designed for sharing and friendly fork battles over the last bite.
A Culinary Journey: Korean Roots Meet French Technique
Raised in South Korea but having built his career in UK kitchens with a strong foundation in French technique, Chef Joo brings a unique perspective to Calong. His dishes represent a masterful light-touch fusion, where Korean flavors meet European ingredients with remarkable finesse.
The meal begins with kimchi fritters—an elevated take on the classic pancake that leans entirely into crispy edges, creating what can only be described as elite snackery. Imagine if roast potatoes were just the skins, and you begin to understand their addictive appeal.
A warm pumpkin and crisp pear salad follows, delicately dressed with gochujang and featuring soft puffs of fried potato gnocchi that initially masquerade as tiny potatoes. Whimsical yet substantial, its artfulness is surpassed only by its creamy, compelling taste.
Cured Chalkstream trout arrives so fresh it seems to retain aquatic vitality, accompanied by a perfectly tart sesame and plum soy dressing, with grapefruit and crisp cucumber enhancing its sprightly character.
Signature Stars and Sublime Sips
Chef Joo's namesake fried chicken represents a culinary triumph—crunchy yet silky tenders resting on a sweet-but-not-too-sweet chilli sauce dotted with crunchy peanuts. The chef champions this dish, and after one taste, diners universally join his endorsement.
For mains, Calong's mythic BBQ onglet steak proves so tender and sweet that it could convert even the most skeptical carnivore. Served with unobtrusive greens and a bulgogi jus, it stands as a clear winner. The only slight misstep in an otherwise flawless procession is the mushroom sot bap rice pot, which delivers deep wintry comfort but lacks the flavor kick that characterizes every other offering.
The beverage program complements the food perfectly, featuring Korean-accented cocktails that are nothing short of sublime. The sesame old fashioned and soju paloma make excellent starting points before transitioning to natural wines.
The Verdict: Stoke Newington's Most Exciting New Restaurant
Calong might not offer Mayfair views, but it provides something perhaps more valuable: exceptional cooking in an environment that feels both special and accessible. The vibe is super romantic without excessive effort, making it ideal date night fodder. For those extending their evening, the teeny tiny micro pub Macintosh Ales awaits just steps away.
With its Euro ingredients and Korean flavors, Calong represents one of the most exciting culinary additions to Stoke Newington's dining scene—a destination where Michelin-level technique meets neighborhood charm.
