Burro Review: A Failsafe Italian Haven in Covent Garden
In the heart of Covent Garden, Burro stands as a polished Italian mega-trattoria, earning a solid 4 out of 5 stars for its exceptional approach to family-friendly dining. If you're searching for the most mum-friendly restaurant in central London, this establishment answers your panicked family-dinner prayers with ease. Founded by Belfast-born Conor Gadd, Burro is the ultra-accessible off-shoot of the beloved Highbury restaurant and perennial Time Out favourite, Trullo.
Scaling Up the Trullo Concept for the West End Masses
Taking the original Trullo concept—handmade pasta, charming service, salty snacky bits, and actual tablecloths—Gadd has super-scaled it into a 100-cover restaurant designed for the West End masses. Burro strikes a culinary Goldilocks balance: not too flashy but not too basic, not too pricey but not too cheap, and not too experimental but not too cautious. It's just right, offering a failsafe Italian experience that appeals to all ages.
The Vibe: A Blend of Elegance and Accessibility
Reminiscent of a nice hotel lobby, the vast room is thick with the sweet smell of Parmesan. While it may not match the intimate charm of Trullo, Burro impresses with high ceilings, a huge oil painting of Speedo-sporting Italian bathers, sleek mid-century chairs sourced from a convent, and velvet banquettes in a geometric pattern akin to tube moquette. Imagine if the Orient Express mated with a Victoria line train—Burro would be the stylish result.
The Food: Buttery Delights and Trad Classics
In a moment of noble transparency, Burro is named after the Italian word for butter, highlighting chefs' liberal use of this elemental ingredient to elevate flavours. The menu features safe-bets with standout dishes. Start with tinned anchovy fillets with crostini and a giant pad of butter, a simple nibble perfect with Lambrusco. Then, dive into a silky, pine-nut heavy caponata packed with glossy aubergine, slippery peppers, and tangy tomatoes—a heavenly bite.
One polarising dish is a thick slab of chicken liver toast, which, despite its deep grey colour, offers a surprisingly subtle flavour with an underlying hum of murky garlic majesty. Pasta is a strong point, with ribbons of yellow fettuccine intertwined with a rich duck and porcini ragu, showered with Parmesan and a tell-tale trail of butter in the bowl. For seafood lovers, the crab 'acqua pazza'—an Italian bouillabaisse with chunky mussels, nutty chickpeas, fresh parsley, and crumbled crab meat—is a deep, salty broth not to be missed.
Sweet Endings and Family-Friendly Sharing
Save room for tiramisu doughnuts, more like golf ball-sized churros dusted in crunchy sugar and cinnamon, stacked on a smudge of coffee cream. Perfect for sharing with mum, these desserts encapsulate Burro's ethos of accessible, indulgent dining.
Drinks and Time Out Tips
The drink selection includes a massive Italian wine list, a neat aperitivo range, and cocktails to complement any meal. Note that the menu changes daily, but the fettuccine with duck and porcini ragu looks set to be a mainstay—order it without hesitation.
Burro delivers a family-friendly, big-room Italian dining experience in Covent Garden, making it a top choice for those seeking reliable, buttery delights in a polished setting.
