London's dining scene is witnessing a shift as bar snacks replace small plates. According to a report by Time Out, the capital has reached peak small plate fatigue, with diners craving simpler, more comforting fare. Bar snacks—such as Scotch eggs, sausage rolls, and chip butties—are making a comeback in pubs and upscale bars alike.
What's driving the change?
Peter Harden of Harden's Guide told the Independent that small plates are no longer radical. Drag queen Johnny Woo wrote in the Guardian: 'Grow up and give me a pie.' The trend reflects a desire for no-nonsense meals that pair well with drinks. Bar snacks are defined as simple, stodgy bites that keep punters thirsty for more pints, unlike the sophisticated small plates that dominated menus.
Pubs lead the revival
Traditional pubs are at the forefront. The Robin in Crouch Hill, opened in 2023, offers pickled eggs, salami sticks, Scotch eggs, and pork pies. The Pocket in Islington runs a strict 'no green food' rule. Owner Pete Holt says: 'Some pub meals cost £25 these days... It's annoying, inefficient and expensive.' Gastropubs like the Pelican in Notting Hill serve oysters and mince on toast, while The Devonshire in Soho offers a £2 sausage on a stick.
Tom Noest, owner of The Hawthorn in Shepherd's Bush, notes: 'Naturally when you drink, you get a bit peckish. A Scotch egg or rarebit is a nice middle ground.' He adds that bar snacks are more popular in London than in the Cotswolds, where customers want full meals. 'The drinking culture in London is a lot more pronounced,' he says. 'You walk up to the bar, you get your pints then you think “oh fuck it, let’s get a Scotch egg”.'
Wine and cocktail bars join in
The trend extends beyond pubs. Caviar House & Prunier in Piccadilly offers handcooked crisps with a tin of caviar, claiming it's London's poshest bar snack. At Lyaness cocktail bar, tater tots and mushroom sausage rolls accompany negronis. Three Sheets Soho pairs martinis with chip butties, originally a staff meal. Head chef Ethan Pack says the menu aims to be 'accessible to everyone' and taps into nostalgia: 'a lot of the dishes... are just about nostalgia, stuff based on what you remember eating as a kid.'
Bar Flor in Belgravia features a calamari sandwich, a Madrid working-class staple. Chef Aaron Potter explains: 'Sometimes you need a booze soaker-upper... It's important for me that you get your food quickly in a bar.' He emphasizes that serving substantial food allows customers to spend an evening in a bar without worrying about not eating enough.
Impact and outlook
The bar snack resurrection aligns with London's craving for authenticity and reliability. Punters want gloriously salty, stodgy bites to accompany their drinks. This trend shows no signs of slowing, with new openings like The Golden Tooth from the Papi team offering Taytos and cheese and pickle sandwiches. As Noest sums up, bar snacks are easy, spontaneous, and perfectly suited to London's drinking culture.
