Alta Restaurant: A Basque Culinary Escape in the Heart of Soho
Northern Spain is currently experiencing a surge in popularity, with many Londoners flocking to destinations like San Sebastian for pintxos and sidra. However, you don't need to book expensive flights to savor authentic Basque flavors. London's dining scene has embraced this trend, with new establishments like Alta offering a taste of the region right in Soho. This restaurant, part of the same group behind Moi, provides a serene oasis within the lively Kingly Court food hall, blending sophisticated design with rustic charm.
Ambiance and Design: A Calm Retreat
Alta's interior is a masterclass in tranquility, featuring neutral tones and natural materials that soothe the senses. The walls are artfully coated in mud, with sculptural cracks highlighted by warm spotlights, possibly nodding to Cantabria's paleolithic cave paintings. This creates an elegant yet earthy atmosphere, perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle of central London.
The Culinary Experience: Live-Fire Cooking and Sharing Plates
The menu at Alta emphasizes live-fire grilling and sharing plates, showcasing the rich culinary traditions of the Alta Navarra region. Start with the whimsical bread and butter, served in a fairy-tale style with a crisp, warm loaf. Highlights include sea bream crudo with a zingy mandarin dressing and cheese doughnuts stuffed with smoky cheddar and drizzled with hot honey. For mains, the arroz meloso—a bed of umami rice with sweet crab meat—is surprisingly light and delicious. The star dish is a 35-day aged sirloin with smoked bone marrow, served with ratte potatoes and garlicky mojo verde butter, complemented by sweet leeks and crunchy walnuts.
Desserts and Drinks: A Perfect Finish
Dessert at Alta offers a grown-up twist on the classic s'more, featuring dark chocolate mousse with olive oil and salt, topped with marshmallow and crisped bread hiding sourdough sorbet. The drinks menu is extensive, with sections for vermouth, British and Spanish ciders, wines, and cocktails, designed to pair seamlessly with any course. Don't miss the Not Them Apples cocktail, a rum-based drink that balances sweet, sour, and savory notes.
Overall Impression and Recommendations
Alta delivers an immersive Basque dining experience without the need for travel, making it a must-visit for food enthusiasts. With its sophisticated vibe, expertly crafted dishes, and thoughtful drink pairings, it stands out as a top destination for Spanish cuisine in London. Whether you're seeking a casual meal or a special occasion, Alta promises a memorable journey through northern Spain's flavors.
