From cool Marseille to a photo-feast in Arles, an art trail through Provence offers a wealth of museums and festivals showcasing contemporary artists. Here is how to make the most of a dazzling cultural summer.
My wife and I moved from London to Marseille over five years ago when British passports still granted the right to reside in France. That first winter on the beach, in short sleeves, as our daughters played in the azure Mediterranean and the sun set across a clear blue sky, I understood why southern France has always attracted artists.
Marseille: A Hub for Contemporary Art
Recently, I spoke with painter Fanny Nushka and her sailor husband Benoît Bouchet on the terrace of Café la Muse in Marseille's coolest neighbourhood. She remarked, "It took a long time to go back to blue. It is like being in Paris and painting the Eiffel Tower. It is dangerous to paint the Calanques as an artist from here."
We moved to Marseille for affordability, which enables Fanny to paint full-time and Benoît to sail without long absences. Benoît runs daily catered cruises on the listed yacht Le Don du Vent. For €135, guests enjoy Mediterranean luxury with swimming, snorkelling, and sunbathing in unspoiled coves, accompanied by wine and lunch prepared onboard.
Céline Ghisleri, co-president of Provence Contemporary Art, which represents 62 arts organisations, notes that Marseille has always had a dynamic art scene. The turning point came when Marseille was named European Capital of Culture in 2013. Since then, institutions like Frac Sud, Mac, and Mucem have expanded with larger exhibitions from renowned artists.
This summer, Mucem features Bonnes Mères, a collection on motherhood, and Clément Cogitore's Ferdinandea, l'île éphémère, focusing on a volcanic island's brief existence. At the end of August, Art-O-Rama art fair will be held at La Friche La Belle de Mai, a former tobacco factory turned multidisciplinary arts centre, buzzing with summer movie screenings and food trucks on the roof. La Friche epitomises Marseille's art scene: chaotic but functional.
Aix-en-Provence: A Contrast in Tranquillity
Outside Marseille, the Plein Sud network of contemporary art organisations provides travel itineraries. This led me to the charming Gallifet art centre in Aix-en-Provence, about 40 minutes from Marseille but in a different universe. Aix's daily market at Place Richelme offers coffee and outdoor seating at Maison Weibel. For lunch, Drôle d'Endroit serves pleasing meals in a friendly atmosphere, while Tita offers Levantine street food.
Despite its size, Aix has abundant museums like the Granet Museum, Caumont Art Centre, and Vasarely Foundation, but they often focus on historically anointed art. For instance, the Granet only acquired works by local artist Cézanne in 1984; his preserved studio is nearby.
Gallifet offers a refreshing alternative. Owners Nicolas Mazet and Kate Davis bring contemporary art to conservative Aix. Located in an 18th-century townhouse, the courtyard features Diadji Diop's striking red sculpture of a swimmer. This summer's exhibition is a retrospective of photographer François Halard, with over 100 works spanning three decades. Until September, Gallifet hosts a seasonal restaurant and chef's residency. Parisian chefs Lisa Desforges and Bruno Hammerle use Provençal ingredients for menus like smoked ricotta gnocchi with peas. Gallifet also offers two apartments (from €200 and €160 per night), decorated with previous exhibition pieces and featuring Provençal details like marble fireplaces.
Avignon: Historic Walls and Modern Art
Further up the Rhône, Avignon is enclosed by medieval walls, with the Palais des Papes overlooking Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards and lavender fields. Each July, the Avignon festival takes over the town. After a visit, stroll along Rue Peyrolerie, a winding medieval alley leading to L'Épicerie restaurant in a square beside a 14th-century gothic church. The classic French cuisine is generous and friendly; the terrace fills quickly. Another courtyard dining option is Numéro 75.
The Lambert Collection is the most notable contemporary art address in Avignon, housed in two 18th-century townhouses. It is the legacy of gallerist Yvon Lambert, who championed American artists like Nan Goldin, Donald Judd, Lawrence Weiner, and Cy Twombly. The collection supports emerging local artists in its Antechamber of Summer exhibition, this year featuring Iranian artist Melika Sadeghzadeh.
Arles: Photography and Roman Heritage
South of Avignon, Arles centres on a 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheatre hosting plays and concerts. The Vincent van Gogh Foundation and Luma hold exhibitions year-round, but the highlight is the Rencontres d'Arles in July, showcasing contemporary and historical photography across town venues.
Recently, we visited Arles for its Festival of Drawing. After exploring the Roquette district's medieval streets, we discovered restaurant Páou in Place Paul Doumer, offering sharing plates with local produce and wines. We enjoyed another meal under a clear blue sky.
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