James Eden, founder of Manchester-based clothing brand Private White VC, has hit back at critics of Prime Minister Andy Burnham's wardrobe, arguing that the PM should be praised, not condemned, for wearing high-quality British-made garments. In an interview with the Guardian, Eden insisted that there is "nothing to debate" about Burnham's choice of clothing, which includes an £80 T-shirt and a £695 Harrington jacket, all made in Eden's 173-year-old mill.
Media storm over PM's clothing
Less than two weeks after Burnham moved into Downing Street, Eden found himself defending his company against a media onslaught. The Daily Mail ran a front-page story highlighting the cost of Burnham's outfits, accusing him of hypocrisy at a time when voters face financial strain. Online commentators echoed the criticism, but Eden remains defiant.
"There should be no cynicism or criticism about a British PM promoting British goods," Eden said. "He is the premier spokesperson of British trade and industry. Of course he should be wearing British-made stuff."
Quality over cost
Eden, a former investment banker, runs the company his great-grandfather Jack White, a Victoria Cross recipient, established in the 1940s. The brand employs about 100 people, with 90% of products made in the mill overlooking the River Irwell. The remaining 10% come from small independent suppliers, including Scottish cashmere.
Burnham's waterproof Harrington jacket costs £695, his marine jeans £295, and a zipped polo shirt £195. Eden does not shy away from these prices, arguing that the brand offers a world-class product. "We don't compromise on quality," he said. "We work with the best of the best, including the best weavers and the best finishers."
Economic impact and local employment
Eden emphasizes that his workers earn an average of £20 per hour, contrasting this with lower wages in Eastern Europe or the Far East. His longest-serving employee has been with the family's companies for nearly 60 years. He also highlights that 99% of the proceeds from an £850 jacket stay in the UK economy, supporting local suppliers and jobs.
"Sourcing things from local suppliers and employing people locally, all those proceeds stay within the local community and within the UK," Eden explained. The mill's boiler maintenance worker started as an apprentice in the 1980s, and all photographers, stylists, and makeup artists for the brand's shoots are Manchester-based.
Industry challenges and opportunities
The UK fashion industry has struggled over the past decade, with more than 400,000 retail jobs lost since 2016, according to the British Retail Consortium. Eden suggests that an easy win for the industry would be for the government to allocate a proportion of defence and NHS apparel-making to UK manufacturers, instead of relying on Bangladesh and China.
During the pandemic, Eden's factory was awarded a PPE contract, hiring dozens of extra staff to produce millions of medical-grade gowns and face masks. He has since repurposed the equipment to make jersey collections, retaining many of those workers. "If the Ministry of Defence or the NHS were to establish a supply chain here, the country could employ thousands of people," he said.
No freebies, even for the PM
Eden says he "remains apolitical" and supports anyone who advocates for British-made products. The brand has never given anything away for free, and this rule applies even to the prime minister. "We wouldn't consider anyone that is after a freebie," Eden said. "It shows that they are not respecting the time, the labour, the tradition and all the hard bloody work that's gone into what we do."
High-profile customers include David Beckham, Liam Gallagher, Eddie Redmayne, Tom Hardy, Pierce Brosnan, the Eagles, Daniel Craig, and Robert De Niro. Eden believes Burnham discovered the brand through word of mouth, as loyal customers often share the story behind the pieces.
