The Unexpected Return of Pointelle Fashion
In a fashion landscape dominated by bold statements and fast-changing trends, an unexpected fabric has emerged as the season's quiet champion. Pointelle, the delicate patterned knit traditionally associated with childhood underwear and thermal wear, is experiencing a remarkable resurgence among adult consumers. This revival speaks to deeper cultural currents seeking comfort, nostalgia, and authenticity in an increasingly unpredictable world.
From Childhood Memories to Adult Wardrobes
The fabric itself, defined by Merriam-Webster as "an openwork design typically in the shape of chevrons," carries powerful associations with simpler times. Many remember pointelle from childhood ankle socks with cotton ruffles or from the early 2000s when brands like Whistles produced lacey pointelle camisoles. Today, this same fabric has been reinterpreted for contemporary tastes, appearing in everything from bodysuits to dresses and loungewear.
Major retailers have taken notice of this shift. John Lewis reported a significant 60% week-on-week increase in online searches for pointelle items, while heritage knitwear brand Herd now offers "featherlight yet warm" pointelle jumpers for spring. The trend has gained momentum through celebrity endorsements, with Rosalía wearing a pointelle bodysuit during her Paris concert and Sabrina Carpenter featuring in a pointelle underwear set for Perfect magazine.
The Cultural Drivers Behind the Trend
According to fashion analysts, pointelle's appeal extends beyond mere aesthetics. Bridget Dalton, a semiotician and cultural analyst at Truth Consulting, observes that "pointelle garments code this really amazing tension between warm and cold" that perfectly suits Britain's unpredictable spring weather. More significantly, she notes the fabric offers "that sort of exposed but comforted feeling" that serves as "almost like the antidote to Brat" culture.
Rose Colcord, founder of Cou Cou Intimates where pointelle sales have grown 150% year over year, identifies deeper psychological drivers. "Culturally, people are craving nostalgia and familiarity, especially with how fast the world is changing," she explains. "It reminds you of being a kid in a way, when you weren't worried about other people's opinions or how you should dress."
High Fashion Embraces the Comfort Trend
The trend gained serious fashion credibility when designer JW Anderson sent models wearing pointelle vests and knickers down his catwalk in 2024. His most recent collection features a Pepto-Bismol-pink pointelle co-ord, while luxury brand Loewe showcased V-neck pointelle dresses in vivid yellows, reds, and blues on their runway.
Aurora Benson, womenswear buying manager at John Lewis, positions pointelle's resurgence as "a move on from the cottagecore and grandpacore aesthetics of previous years. Its delicate lace-like texture leans into a vintage nostalgia while offering modern technical functionality."
The Subversive Side of Softness
Despite its innocent associations, pointelle worn by adults carries surprisingly subversive potential. Dalton points to the provocative nature of "basic underwear on adult bodies," drawing parallels with Kristen Stewart's Rolling Stone cover featuring Y-fronts. "The paradox is the provocation," she notes, suggesting that pointelle's softness challenges conventional notions of adult sexuality coded through "hard, shiny fabrics that restrict and contort the body."
This tension played out dramatically when Lily Allen wore a black pointelle Dior dress to The Hunger Games premiere in London during her "revenge dressing" phase following her album release. The high-necked, long-sleeved design revealed skin through the fabric's characteristic holes, creating what Dalton describes as "that kind of feeling of being cosseted while you're also still showing your body."
For consumers seeking comfort without sacrificing style, pointelle offers a compelling solution. However, as Dalton wryly observes, the trend does raise an intriguing question about contemporary fashion's relationship with traditional domesticity: "Has the tradwife movement infiltrated my knicker drawer?"
What remains clear is that pointelle's unexpected return represents more than just another passing trend. It reflects a broader cultural moment where comfort, nostalgia, and authenticity have become powerful fashion statements in their own right, offering both physical warmth and psychological reassurance in challenging times.
