In a Zurich laboratory, a robotic leg performs a precise dance, spraying an almost invisible filament of 'flying fibre' to construct a cutting-edge sports shoe worth £300. This scene, reminiscent of science fiction, is the reality for Swiss brand On, which is leveraging advanced technology and bold ambition to challenge sportswear titans Nike and Adidas.
From Hose Pipes to a $16bn Giant
The brand's origins are rooted in a desire for better running performance. Co-founder Olivier Bernhard, a former Ironman world champion, initially glued sections of garden hose to an old pair of trainers to create a prototype that cushioned impact and promoted speed. Together with ex-McKinsey consultants David Allemann and Caspar Coppetti, he invested roughly £600,000 of personal savings to launch the company in 2010.
Their innovation paid off spectacularly. The trio floated On on the New York Stock Exchange in 2021 at a valuation of $8bn. Today, the brand is worth approximately $16bn and expects to sell 30 million pairs of shoes this year. While it still controls only about 1% of the global $450bn sportswear market, its growth is formidable, with sales in China doubling year-on-year.
The LightSpray Revolution and Explorer Spirit
A key technological breakthrough came from a chance meeting at a 2019 design fair with student Johannes Voelchert. Inspired by a glue gun for Halloween decorations, his concept evolved into On's proprietary LightSpray 'flying fibre' technology. The company funded his development for a year, embracing what Allemann calls the "explorer spirit."
This ethos drives a team of hundreds of R&D experts from over 90 countries in Zurich. The goal is to foster risk-taking innovation, even as the company now employs 4,000 people globally. The Cloudboom Strike LS laceless shoe, made by just nine robots in Zurich and costing £310, is a prime example. It gained fame after Kenyan runner Hellen Obiri won the New York and Boston marathons and secured an Olympic bronze in Paris wearing them.
Expanding Reach and Facing Challenges
On's strategy extends beyond technology. A pivotal partnership with tennis legend Roger Federer has been crucial, alongside fashion collaborations with luxury brand LOEWE, actor Zendaya, and musicians FKA twigs and Burna Boy. The brand plays in the premium market, with shoes priced from £120 to £495.
Despite cost-of-living pressures, sales are projected to rise by over a third to nearly 3bn Swiss Francs (£2.8bn) this year. The brand has captured up to a fifth of the running shoe market in the UK and parts of Europe. Retail expansion continues apace, with a fourth London store opening in Kensington, aiming for up to seven in the capital.
The journey hasn't been without hurdles. On faced a class-action lawsuit in the US over claims its CloudTec shoes produced a "noisy and embarrassing squeak." The company declined to comment on ongoing legal matters.
Looking ahead, On plans to open its first fully robot-led factory to produce a more accessible version of its LightSpray shoe. The location will be near a key retail market, with an ultimate goal of manufacturing on every continent. Allemann highlights the sustainability benefits: LightSpray shoes have a 75% lower CO2 footprint than conventional sports shoes, aligning with the brand's eco-conscious aims.
With its eyes firmly set on innovation and the Los Angeles 2028 Olympics, On is sprinting to reshape the future of sportswear, one robot-sprayed filament at a time.
