The iconic Grand Palais in Paris was magically transformed into an enchanting willow wood, complete with sugar-pink trees and whimsical giant mushrooms, setting the stage for a fashion fairytale. This breathtaking backdrop hosted Matthieu Blazy's highly anticipated haute couture debut for Chanel, marking his third collection as the creative director of the legendary fashion house.
A Dream Start for the New Creative Director
Taking on the role at Chanel, a brand with annual sales nearing $20 billion and a storied lineage including Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld, is no small feat. For Matthieu Blazy, a 41-year-old Belgian designer previously known mainly within industry circles, this position represents the pinnacle of fashion. His latest show, however, has solidified his dream start, proving he is more than up to the challenge.
Standing Ovation and Industry Approval
The collection concluded to a resounding standing ovation from an audience packed with luminaries such as Anna Wintour, Nicole Kidman, and Dua Lipa. Backstage, the atmosphere was electric, with veteran Chanel staff exchanging high-fives—a rare display of unrestrained enthusiasm in an industry often characterised by cool detachment. Clients in the Grand Palais, amidst the fairytale decor, enthusiastically tossed sable coats aside to capture grinning selfies, signalling overwhelming approval for Blazy's fresh vision.
Innovative Designs and Craftsmanship
The show opened with a reinterpretation of Chanel's classic boxy suit, crafted from tissue-thin mousseline instead of traditional tweed. This delicate fabric allowed the signature chain sewn into the hem to glitter under the lights and sway gracefully in the breeze. Highlights included a slip dress adorned with gemstone spaghetti straps peeking from under a transparent jacket, a birdcage earring cradling a tiny pearl, and a little black dress with a racer back elegantly framed by crimson feathers at the shoulder blades.
While the clothes showcased impeccable chic and heroic craftsmanship, Blazy's Chanel distinguishes itself through a palpable warmth towards the women who wear them. This was evident in the multigenerational and diverse casting of models. "Women who are more mature bring a completely different dimension to my clothes," Blazy remarked backstage. "They are not just beautiful; they have lived, they are anchored, they have seen the world. It gives another dimension for the women who will buy the clothes, allowing them to recognise themselves on the runway."
Personal Touches and Joyful Storytelling
Blazy aimed to infuse his first haute couture show with lightness and joy, describing it as "an adventure" in a world he finds harsh. To personalise the experience, he invited each model to choose something meaningful—be it initials, a loved one's birthdate, a love letter, or a line of poetry—to be woven into their outfits. These intimate messages were meticulously embroidered by Lesage, Paris's premier embroiderers, hidden inside garments or on fabric notes tucked into quilted handbag pockets. One model, for instance, selected the word "kindness," adding a heartfelt layer to the collection.
Pulling Off a Grownup Magic Trick
Prior to the show, a teaser trailer featuring animated Snow White bluebirds over Paris rooftops raised some eyebrows, given Coco Chanel's aversion to cutesiness. Yet, Blazy masterfully executed a grownup magic trick, blending whimsy with sophistication. His signature trompe l'oeil techniques from his tenures at Maison Margiela and Bottega Veneta shone through, such as denim jeans revealed upon closer inspection to be painted mousseline. "I love a tank top and jeans," said Blazy, who sported a Chanel quarter-zip sweater himself. Another standout was a raven-inspired dress with feathers crafted from leather, showcasing innovative material use.
With this successful debut, Matthieu Blazy has firmly established Chanel in what many are calling a fairytale era, blending tradition with modern warmth and creativity to captivate the fashion world.
