Demna, fashion's dark lord of apocalyptic streetwear, has taken the reins at Gucci, the glossy sex kitten of Milan, and the result is a provocative blend of sex appeal that flirts with bad taste. At his debut catwalk show for the brand in Milan on Friday afternoon, an audience including Donatella Versace and Paris and Nicky Hilton witnessed a bold departure from expectations.
A Surprising Walk-of-Shame Vibe
The walk-of-shame vibe was a surprising element, especially considering that Demna had cited Botticelli's early Renaissance paintings as an inspiration in a statement released the night before the show. Backstage, he explained this connection, emphasizing his desire to put Gucci back into cultural relevance. "Gucci is part of Italian culture – like Botticelli, like Michelangelo," he said. "But cultural relevance always starts with underground culture, not with the mainstream, even with a big brand. Gucci has to be fearless."
Flirting with Bad Taste on the Catwalk
The show featured dresses so short and tight that model Emily Ratajkowski periodically yanked down a handful of disco-ball sequins to cover her bottom as she walked. Other highlights included lapdance-bar tinsel hair extensions and Kate Moss in a diamante G-string. A model even pulled his phone out of his bumbag and scrolled his way down the catwalk, adding to the sketchy, rebellious atmosphere.
After the show, Demna addressed the audience's expectations. "Everybody thought I would make oversized bomber jackets with monograms," he said. "That's what ChatGPT said, apparently. But that's not why I came to Gucci." Instead, he declared that his vision for Gucci will be centered on "energy, passion, fun and sex."
Historical Context and Bold Moves
Fashion history supports Demna's bold approach. Gucci's best eras have been its most daring, such as under Tom Ford's compellingly slutty-yet-aloof direction or Alessandro Michele's ambitiously gender-fluid and vintage-curious tenure. The recent brief reign of Sabato De Sarno was widely regarded as playing it too safe, leading to underwhelming results.
To balance the provocative elements, Demna incorporated easier-to-wear pieces into the collection, including high-waisted jeans, leather tailoring, a navy peacoat, and pointy boots. This mix aims to appeal to a broader audience while maintaining the brand's edge.
A Power Move in Luxury Etiquette
The invitations for the show were delivered in plush black velvet-padded jewellery boxes, as if they were priceless diamonds, and announced the event as Gucci "by Demna." This break with traditional etiquette, where a storied luxury house does not usually share top billing with any employee, was a clear power move. Demna is enjoying his newfound freedom and confidence at Gucci.
"For 10 years, I was trying to prove I was smart," he reflected. "At Gucci, I have the freedom to create from an emotional standpoint, not an intellectual one." He added that he is happier and healthier now than ever before, partly because he is "falling in love with myself, which I never was before."
High Stakes for Gucci and the Fashion Industry
Gucci cannot afford for this gamble to fail, and the same holds true for the wider fashion industry. De Sarno's short and underwhelming run led to his departure, and Gucci, as the cash cow of Kering, has faced several years of underperformance, weakening the group and negatively impacting the industry.
Poor sales are not just bad news for billionaire owner François-Henri Pinault and his shareholders; they have a deleterious knock-on effect on fashion. When Kering is flush, it has been the luxury group most willing to take risks on esoteric brands and innovative designers. Belt-tightening makes the industry less interesting and dynamic.
Early Signs of Optimism
Despite these challenges, optimism around Demna's appointment has already shown positive effects. Earlier this month, news that Gucci's sales had fallen less than expected—a 3% decrease in the final quarter of last year, following a 4% decrease in the preceding period—led to a 15% rise in Kering's share price.
Demna's provocative instincts have made him a fashion superstar, but they have also led to controversy. At Balenciaga, he was praised for an emotionally charged show referencing his experience as a child refugee in Georgia during the Ukraine war, but he faced backlash over advertisements featuring teddy bears in bondage that scandalised consumers.
Looking Ahead: Fireworks Expected
Whether Demna's era at Gucci will be a marriage made in heaven or a mutual self-destruction pact remains to be seen. However, one thing is certain: expect fireworks. His debut has set a tone of fearless creativity and sexual energy, aiming to reinvigorate the brand and shake up the luxury fashion landscape.
