Burberry's Urban Revival: Trenchcoats and Rain Define London Fashion Week
In a winter marked by record-breaking rainfall, Burberry has made a triumphant return to the zeitgeist as the quintessential purveyor of the classic British coat. The brand's resurgence is perfectly timed, with its re-entry into the FTSE 100 last autumn following a challenging year out of the charts. This season's downpours have provided an ideal backdrop for Burberry's renewed focus on outerwear, as designer Daniel Lee infuses urban energy into his latest collection.
Rain-Inspired Designs and Urban Energy
Daniel Lee, speaking backstage after the show, revealed that his studio at Burberry headquarters features a massive skylight, allowing him to watch the rain pour down while contemplating London's vibrant atmosphere. "I've been thinking about how London always has this incredible buzz," Lee explained. "Even when it's dark and wet, people are still out every night." This inspiration translated directly to the runway, where the catwalk was intentionally pockmarked with slick puddles made of non-slip resin, ensuring models could navigate the wet look safely in their six-inch heels.
The collection showcased a departure from previous themes of muddy festival fields and country house weekends, instead embracing pure urban energy. Not just trenchcoats, but also faux-fur bomber jackets and padded leather jackets dominated the lineup, paired with stompy leather boots designed for chasing night buses. Burberry has doubled down on outerwear as its core offering, accessorized with scarves, hats, and umbrellas.
Celebrity Presence and Fashion Momentum
The Burberry show itself has become an iconic London night out, this time held under the vaulted iron ribs of the historic Billingsgate fish market. The event attracted notable figures including actress Daisy Edgar-Jones, who chatted with singer Olivia Dean while waiting for the notoriously late Kate Moss. Footballer Eberechi Eze occupied a front-row seat, while Romeo Beckham made a striking appearance walking the catwalk.
Burberry's renewed focus on aspirational customers willing to invest in quality coats appears to be paying off. The classic check scarf was ranked as the fourth hottest fashion item in the last quarter of 2025 according to the Lyst index, which measures search, sales, and social media metrics. Overall demand for the brand has skyrocketed by 239% year on year.
Strategic Shift and Workforce Impact
After an unsuccessful foray into high-concept fashion with premium pricing, Burberry under American chief executive Joshua Schulman is now targeting customers who value heritage names but find Paris and Milan super brands prohibitively expensive. This strategic turnaround has come at a significant cost, however. A global workforce reduction of 1,700 jobs announced last May included 150 roles eliminated at the Castleford factory in Yorkshire, resulting in the closure of the night shift.
The show opened with an ivory trench-ballgown hybrid, reminiscent of the gown worn by Teyana Taylor at Sunday's Baftas, providing a contemporary nod to Burberry's iconic trenchcoat heritage. This blend of tradition and innovation reflects Lee's design philosophy, which draws from his experience working alongside Phoebe Philo at Celine during the 2010s.
Cultural References and Brand Legacy
Burberry's cultural connections run deep, with past catwalk participants and front-row guests reading like a Desert Island Discs celebrity lineup—from Richard E Grant and Joanna Lumley to Ian Wright and Naomi Campbell. The brand's influence extends beyond fashion shows, with Daniel Lee designing Claridge's hotel Christmas tree dressed in vintage Burberry bows this past holiday season.
The latest advertising campaign features original British supermodel Twiggy in a 1960s-style snake-print car coat, paying homage to British fashion history, alongside Maya Wigram—daughter of designer Phoebe Philo—in a laser-cut trenchcoat. These choices subtly reference Lee's pedigree while reinforcing Burberry's position in the fashion landscape. From knights in shining armor on the runway to black cabs and full English breakfasts in advertisements, Burberry continues to weave British iconography into its brand narrative while embracing contemporary urban realities.
