The fashion industry received its long-awaited answer to a pivotal question on Monday afternoon in Milan: what does Giorgio Armani look like without its legendary founder? The house presented its first menswear collection since the designer's death in September, marking the debut of his long-time collaborator, Leo Dell'Orco, as the new director of menswear.
A Palette Shift and Nod to the Archives
Where the late Giorgio Armani was synonymous with a relaxed, deconstructed silhouette and a signature colour palette of 'greige' – a blend of grey and beige – Dell'Orco signalled a subtle but distinct shift. The show retained the brand's hallmark fluidity in silk, velvet and cashmere, but introduced a spectrum of rich, jewel-like tones. Amethyst, sapphire, and lapis blue hues refreshed the classic Armani uniform of velvet coordinates and cashmere 'shackets'.
The collection also tapped into a 1980s sensibility, featuring leather bomber jackets, aviator-inspired styles, jacquard knits and rakish suiting that evoked a certain rockstar elegance. This move appears commercially astute, capitalising on a surge in demand for vintage Armani; following Giorgio's death, eBay reported a 192% spike in searches for the brand.
Industry Reaction: Respectful Evolution
Held in the familiar basement of Armani's headquarters, the show garnered a positive response from the menswear press. Critics noted Dell'Orco's deep understanding of the house codes, honed over 40 years of collaboration with the founder.
"It definitely felt like the brand wasn't trying to reinvent itself after the passing of Mr Armani," said Zak Maoui, style director at Gentleman's Journal. He described the show as a "celebration of Armani" with a more upbeat mood. Paul Toner, deputy editor at 10 Magazine, agreed, praising "great additions that felt youthful, like those buttery soft leather jackets."
The Future of the Armani Empire
The show notes emphasised that Dell'Orco's vision emerged naturally from his decades beside Giorgio Armani, suggesting his role may be a long-term appointment rather than an interim measure. He took his bow alongside his nephew, Gianluca Dell'Orco, head of the menswear style office.
While Leo Dell'Orco leads menswear and Armani's niece, Silvana, continues as womenswear design director, speculation about a broader creative succession continues. Names like former Celine designer Hedi Slimane have been rumoured, though the brand has not commented.
Beyond design, the future ownership structure of the group is also in focus. A new board is enacting Armani's specific posthumous wishes, which instruct heirs to sell stakes in the business to a major group like L'Oréal or LVMH within set timeframes, potentially ending the brand's famed independence.
