Gail's, the upmarket bakery chain, has ignited a storm of protest in Islington with its latest outlet in Highbury Barn, a street celebrated for its independent shops. Local traders and residents, including renowned food writer Nigel Slater, have voiced their dismay, with one café owner saying he is 'absolutely heartbroken' by the news.
The chain is currently transforming the former Saltine restaurant, which closed in December amid what was described as a 'tough' trading climate. Teaser signage outside the site has already drawn criticism, with Slater calling the new arrival the 'last thing' the area needs.
Independent Café Owners Fear for Their Livelihoods
Gokhan Karakoc, who has run Pia's café for over a decade, is among those most concerned. The 52-year-old is already grappling with soaring electricity bills and business rates, and he fears Gail's could be the final blow. 'They are like a monster, just opening up on every corner,' he told MyLondon. 'There are already three of their shops within the mile. I don't know what made them open here.'
Karakoc worries that the new bakery will siphon off his customers, despite potentially boosting footfall. 'The shop may increase footfall to the street but it will definitely take away my customers as well. Me, the small businesses next door, we're all worrying about it.'
His concerns extend beyond immediate competition. Highbury is already heavily gentrified, and Gail's is often seen as a marker of skyrocketing property prices—a phenomenon dubbed the 'Gail's Effect.' Karakoc fears he could be priced out when his rent comes up for renewal. 'Gail's have likely gone in there with a high rate of rent so when the landlords are resigning, they're checking the surrounding properties,' he explained. 'They're not gonna align my rent with the cheapest one, they're obviously going to estimate it alongside the highest. It could kill us. I don't know how I am going to cope.'
Petition Against 'Corporate Gentrification' Gains Traction
Gail's is no stranger to controversy. Residents of Primrose Hill and Stoke Newington have previously protested against the chain's arrival in their 'village-like' neighbourhoods, and thousands in Walthamstow signed a petition urging people to reject its branch. Now, more than 200 people have signed a similar petition calling on Islington Council to protect Highbury Barn from 'corporate gentrification.' Campaign organizers say they have witnessed the area lose its 'vibrant community' over several decades.
Hassan, who has worked locally for 30 years, echoed these sentiments. 'A lot of my customers are saying to me, "How can Gail's open up here?" They're not happy about it,' he said. 'I won't use it myself. I prefer to use the smaller shops that have been here for many years. Everyone is just trying to make a living.' He added that the rates and rents in the area are already high, and while local businesses feel the strain, Gail's, as a much larger company, does not.
Residents See Gail's as a Symbol of Displacement
Mike, a barista at a coffee van near Highbury Fields, described Gail's as 'the McDonald's of coffee.' 'I'm not thrilled about it,' he said. 'They're just popping up everywhere. I'd rather it wasn't there but there's not we can do. The same thing happened in Stoke Newington and everyone was annoyed about it.'
However, Mike acknowledged that Highbury's affluent demographic might be a draw for the chain. According to Rightmove, average house prices in the area over the last year were £834,109. 'A lot of people living here are rich and Gail's is marketed as a posh coffee place,' he noted. 'I don't think it will affect us really, we have a slightly different demographic. It's a bit of a shame though for the small businesses on the road.'
The opening date for the Highbury branch remains unclear, with building work still in progress. MyLondon has approached Gail's for comment. In the meantime, some café staff are trying to stay optimistic. Evrim, who manages Stage Brasserie on Highbury Park, believes her customers will remain loyal. 'I'm not quite sure how it will affect us just yet,' she said. 'They don't do sit down breakfast just yet so I'm hoping that makes us stand out. The people who are living around here all appreciate the local businesses. They say they are refusing to go there so I'm hoping we'll be ok.'
