A prominent UK chef with two Michelin stars has ignited a fierce debate about food safety standards in elite restaurants after his establishment received a poor hygiene score.
A Clash of Culinary Cultures
Gareth Ward, the chef and owner of the acclaimed restaurant Ynyshir in Powys, Wales, has stated he is "not embarrassed" after the venue was given a one-out-of-five hygiene rating by Ceredigion County Council inspectors. The rating indicates the restaurant is operating below the minimum legal standards required.
The inspection report, published on the Food Standards Agency website, found that Ynyshir's management of food safety needed "major improvement". The cleanliness and condition of its facilities also required work, while its hygienic food handling was deemed "generally satisfactory".
Ward, whose restaurant was named the UK's best in 2022 and 2023, attributed the low score to inspectors' concerns over his use of raw and aged ingredients. Ynyshir serves a 30-course tasting menu starting at £468 per person, featuring dishes like Welsh wagyu rib, sashimi, oysters, and aged duck liver.
Critics Defend 'A Different World'
The controversy deepened when food critic Giles Coren defended Ward on the BBC, suggesting that standard health and safety rules "don't really apply" to elite establishments like Ynyshir. He argued the environment was far removed from typical restaurant inspections focused on cross-contamination in fridges.
"It's a different sort of world," Coren said. "They are clearly doing enough to prevent the spread of bacteria but if you imagine a hygiene inspector... expecting to see a neat provincial fridge, I can see that he would lose his mind."
These remarks provoked immediate backlash from the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health (CIEH). Una Kane, chair of the CIEH's food advisory panel, stated it was "insulting" to imply restaurants cannot offer a unique experience while complying with hygiene laws. "No food business should see itself as above the law," she added.
Industry Voices and Systemic Tensions
The incident has highlighted a broader tension within the UK's food industry. Other chefs have come forward with similar experiences. James Lowe, former chef-owner of Michelin-starred Lyle's in London, recalled his restaurant once receiving a two-star hygiene rating after inspectors were alarmed by unpasteurised cheese and aged meats.
Tomono Davies, a London-based sushi expert, noted the cultural gap in food safety approaches, stating regulations in Japan are "much kinder" because the baseline level of chef discipline and cleanliness is higher. "Here, it's more about saving yourself because you don't want to get sued or go out of business," she observed.
For his part, Gareth Ward has conceded the inspectors were "not 100% wrong" and has since installed an extra hand-washing station in the fish preparation area. He also cited overwhelming paperwork as a contributing factor to the poor rating.
Under Welsh law, Ynyshir must now display its one-star hygiene certificate prominently. The restaurant has requested a re-inspection, though a date has not yet been set, leaving this culinary clash between artistry and regulation unresolved.
