St Albans Review: Historic City Near London Fails to Impress Visitor
As a lifestyle reporter always eager to explore England's diverse locales, I recently felt compelled to visit St Albans after it repeatedly surfaced on my social media feeds. This historic cathedral city in Hertfordshire, situated approximately 20 miles north of London, is widely recognized as an attractive and prosperous commuter town. However, its heritage stretches back nearly two millennia, blending Roman remains and medieval thoroughfares with modern retail outlets to create one of the most historically significant cities in southeast England.
Ancient Roots and Roman Heritage
The origins of St Albans can be traced to the Roman settlement of Verulamium, established in the 1st century AD and growing into one of the largest towns in Roman Britain. This settlement served as a crucial hub for commerce and administration, featuring impressive temples, bathhouses, and a theatre. Today, sections of the Roman fortifications and intricate mosaics remain visible, particularly in and around the expansive Verulamium Park. These remnants of the Roman community constitute a significant element of the city's unique character, drawing numerous visitors annually who come to marvel at this ancient history.
Cathedral and Namesake Legacy
St Albans derives its name from St Alban, traditionally regarded as Britain's first Christian martyr, who was executed for sheltering a Christian priest during Roman times. A shrine erected in his memory eventually evolved into the magnificent St Albans Cathedral, which continues to stand as the city's most renowned and iconic landmark. This architectural masterpiece, with its rich religious history, anchors the city's identity and attracts pilgrims and tourists alike.
Modern Reality: A Mixed Experience
Despite its esteemed reputation for heritage, open spaces, and excellent transport connections to London, my weekend trip to St Albans left me feeling somewhat disappointed. I had anticipated a more refined and polished experience, but certain areas of the city centre appeared rather worn out and neglected. Several streets showed signs of weathering, and the uneven, poorly maintained pavements significantly detracted from the pleasure of strolling around as much as I had originally envisaged.
Crowds and Practical Challenges
The city was also exceedingly crowded during my visit, contributing more to a sense of disorder and chaos than to any charming allure. Securing a parking spot proved trickier than expected, likely exacerbated by it being market day when the historic 1000-year-old market was in full swing. This practical challenge added an unexpected layer of frustration to what I had hoped would be a leisurely exploration.
Dining Highlights and Lowlights
My day commenced with breakfast at The Ivy, a restaurant I once adored and considered a real indulgence. Unfortunately, it fell short of expectations, with notably sluggish service and subpar food quality that failed to justify its reputation. On a more positive note, the other dining options in St Albans proved to be a standout feature. I thoroughly enjoyed a delicious meal at Japes, savoring some truly scrumptious pizza, and also popped into Knoops for a decadent and satisfying hot chocolate that lifted my spirits.
Shopping Strengths and Final Verdict
In terms of eateries, pubs, and shops, the town certainly delivers a robust offering. It is difficult to entirely write off a destination that boasts popular retail outlets like Anthropologie, Oliver Bonas, and Space NK, as such a diverse and high-quality mix typically indicates a solid shopping destination. The historical aspects, including the Roman ruins and the cathedral, are undeniably impressive and well-preserved. However, despite these strengths, the overall experience was marred by the crowded conditions, uneven infrastructure, and some dining disappointments. Consequently, I am not sure I would be in a hurry to return to St Albans anytime soon, as it failed to live up to the heightened expectations set by its glowing online reputation.