Seychelles: Africa's Smallest Country Outshines Maldives and Mauritius
Forget the glossy brochures of newlyweds clinking champagne flutes on dazzling white sand. While the Seychelles has been pigeonholed as the ultimate 'fly and flop' honeymoon destination, it is a whole lot more than that. And, although it vies for attention against rivals like the Maldives and Mauritius, it is, in my experience, superior.
Beyond the Beaches: A Diverse Paradise
On the islands that make up Africa's smallest country, there are none of the over-commercialised resorts that are ten-a-penny in Mauritius, and the scenery is brilliantly diverse compared to the flat (albeit immaculate) landscape of Maldivian atolls. Beyond its palm-embroidered beaches and the turquoise water that kisses the shore, the Seychelles is home to a rugged wilderness with spectacular granite mountains to hike and tropical forests to explore.
This is not a place where you lie in a sun lounger all day, cocktail in hand. The beating heart of this beautiful country is its culture: a vibrant melting pot of African, European, and Asian influence. Here's the best of what I saw – and where I stayed – on a six-day visit.
Exploring Praslin: The Garden of Eden
Fresh off a smooth Qatar Airways flight into Mahé, we transfer onto a seaplane for a 15-minute hop between islands. It's breathtaking to fly over turquoise waters that glitter in the sunlight, while the tropical shores of Praslin – the Seychelles' second-largest island – creep into view.
After a grill-to-plate dinner followed by a delightful night's sleep at the Indian Ocean Lodge Hotel, the real Seychelles experience begins at the Vallée de Mai Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site so primal and lush, it is often said to be the original Garden of Eden. Under a canopy of ancient palms, we track the legendary Coco-de-Mer, the world's heaviest (and most suggestively shaped) nut. This forbidden fruit's shape resembles a woman's booty, weighing in at up to 40kg, and is regarded as a fertility symbol in Seychellian culture.
As the sun dips, the forest transforms. The air grows heavy with the scent of damp earth and foliage, while the rare Black Parrot whistles its final notes of the day. There is a mystical, nocturnal energy here—a sense that the forest has remained unchanged for millennia, thriving in a shadowy prehistoric glory.
Mahé's Cultural and Culinary Delights
My time on Praslin is short, sadly, as Creole cooking, cocktail making, and fruit picking call me back to Mahé. I'm swept into the lush tropical Vallee de Fruits for its plantation tour. This is the Seychelles' first organic fruit plantation and eco-tourism experience, rooted in sustainable development. Trekking is thirsty work, but the reserve's owners are ready and waiting with a delicious tray of 'Fruishi' – their version of sushi, with fresh fruits sliced like sashimi and served on palm leaves.
At the Domaine de Val des Près, the focus shifts from nature to people. Through the 'Grandma Savoir Faire' program, we trade beach towels for aprons. It's a hands-on experience where you dive into Seychellois culture, with local chefs demonstrating the array of indigenous produce to create mouth-watering vegan curries while we sip on coconut cocktails.
Victoria: The Capital's Urban Charm
The Republic's capital, Victoria, is situated in the north-east of Mahé and brings an urban flavour to island life. Despite its cosy feel – there are only two dozen streets – it is the beating heart of a nation that is far more diverse than its 'luxury' label suggests. The town is a mix of stone and wooden houses from the early 20th century, their facades and shutters a bright range of colours.
Victoria's birth harks back to the French settler period in 1778, before it was later given its name by the British, after Queen Victoria. The 'Little Ben' clock tower stands as a silver sentinel to the island's colonial past, a replica of the black, red, and gold cast iron miniature clock tower at Vauxhall Bridge Road in London. But the real magic is found in the Victoria Market, a bustling riot of colour where the catch of the day can be found laid out on ice.
Accommodation Highlights: From Mahé to Denis Island
On Mahé, I stayed at Mango House – once the private home of legendary Italian fashion photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri. This southern hotspot offers a serene place to rest your head and rejuvenate from its stunning cliffside position to its plunge pools and array of fabulous dining options.
For the final and most memorable leg, we headed to Denis Private Island. Here, the night comes alive. Away from the light pollution of the mainland, the Seychellois sky becomes a glittering tapestry of ancient constellations. The island has a strict no WiFi policy in rooms, so having a smartphone becomes redundant. It is a shock at first, but that's what makes this incredible place so special. Its return rate of guests is testament that its digital detox policy works.
The island is famed for its family of giant tortoises and famous incumbent – Toby the Tortoise – who turned a startling 128 years of age on January 1. The hotel gives you your own bicycle to pedal around the island, and trekking through its forest trails to spot nesting sea birds is a must-do. But the best waits for darkness to fall: stargaze on secret stretches of sand or dance between fire posts while sipping on cocktails mixed from local ingredients.
Best Time to Visit and Travel Tips
The best time to visit the Seychelles is in April and May, or October and November, due to fewer rain showers and calmer seas. Air Seychelles now operates direct flights from Paris and Rome, making it more accessible than ever.
Sarah Robertson was a guest of Turquoise Holidays and Indian Ocean Lodge, but our reviews remain 100% independent. To book a trip to the Seychelles or any of the accommodation mentioned, visit the respective websites for more details.
