I can see my breath as I heave through the heavy wooden door into the cosy embrace of The Lovat hotel. A fire crackles and pops as a smiling waiter places a hot toddy in my hands, and I sink into an enveloping armchair in front of the hearth. One sip and I can feel the whiskey and honey warming my chest, a welcome antidote to the crisp Scottish air.
Rooted in the rugged wilderness of the Highlands in a tiny village on Loch Ness, this four-star hotel, run by couple Caroline and Sean Kelly, feels like a warm hug at the end of a cold day. I'm here in the chill of the off-season, but it's a great place to be at any time of year, just a short walk from Nessie's iconic abode and easily reached from Inverness station.
The hotel and its location are perfect for those who want to explore the great outdoors of Caledonia, then return to cosy surrounds and exceptional food to fill the belly.
Walking through history
The Lovat's story began in 1869, when a station hotel known as 'The Inn' was opened on the site of the old Kilwhimen Barracks. It's a place with fascinating history: seized in 1745 by Bonnie Prince Charlie's Jacobite forces on their way to Culloden.
With the arrival of the railway in Fort Augustus in 1903, The Inn evolved into 'The Lovat Arms & Station Hotel' — a popular stopover for travellers exploring the region. When the railway ran its last passenger service in 1911, the word 'station' was dropped, and it became 'The Lovat'. Exactly one hundred years later in 2011, Sean Kelly took over the kitchen as Head Chef, and following a hospitality romance, he and Caroline married in May 2015. Then they took over the hotel.
The great outdoors
I visited The Lovat with my partner, and we both agree that its biggest selling point is location. Ensconced in the wilds of the Highlands, the hotel is surrounded by dozens of trails that meander along deep glacial valleys and vast freshwater lochs. At reception there's a dedicated folder detailing where to go, the length and difficulty of the walk, and where to park if needed. Pack your hiking boots.
We headed straight for Lady Falls (aka The Secret Falls), which is about 5km long, beginner-friendly, and well within walking distance. The waterfall is gorgeous, and pictures really don't do it justice. We enjoyed the bracing spray on our faces and the extraordinarily clear crystal streams. If you look closely, there's a good chance you'll spot wild deer with giant antlers between the trees, watching as you pass.
To challenge ourselves, we also tackled Allt na Criche, a circular route that winds past more thundering waterfalls all the way up to the Great Glen Way. Your reward is a sweeping panorama across Loch Ness and Fort Augustus. It's strenuous though, and not suitable for anyone who struggles with steep inclines or long distances.
Hiking is hungry work, but this is where the hotel comes in: they prepare picnics on request for guests to take on your adventures. And let me tell you, the wild garlic soup is simply to die for. A nice touch was that ours was sourced from the wild garlic we'd foraged with the help of hotel staff earlier that morning. They run guided walks where you can learn what you can forage (and what you cannot). It's short and sweet and best of all: free.
That said, the best outdoor pursuit the hotel encourages is, without question, a Loch Ness dook. For those of you not fluent in Scotsman, it means taking a dip in the famously frigid loch. Due to its immense depth and volume, Ness maintains a bitterly cold, year-round water temperature averaging about 5°C. At reception, staff will give you a dry robe to use and the location of a secret spot hidden from prying eyes where you can attempt to submerge yourself and protect your dignity if you fail. Did I moan about doing it? Yes. Did I feel incredible afterwards? Yes. Oh, and there's merch available from the hotel to prove you've braved the water. You can literally say been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
A dinner to remember
A very nice breakfast is included in your stay, but where this hotel really shines is with its fine dining restaurant, Station Road. This is high-end grub, and at £125pp, it's certainly not for travellers on a budget. But you can expect exceptional service, and heavenly course after heavenly course, centred around locally sourced vegetables and fish. For cheap and cheerful, head into town.
There wasn't a dud on the menu, but our standouts were the Shetland crab (with a crab toddy, of course), venison in a sloe gin sauce, Shetland mussels and stone bass, and clootie dumpling, a traditional Scottish pudding made with dried fruit and spices. Dinner comes with freshly baked bread and a recipe for same printed on wildflower paper, which you can plant and grow flowers from after baking a loaf. It's a lovely touch. For dessert, we were treated to ice cream artfully made to look like a tree branch. You can add a drinks flight pairing starting at £80pp, or £55 for a non-alcoholic version. If it's a rainy day, you can also sign up for a chocolate-making course where you learn how to temper chocolate and create your own sweet treats. I still dream about that caramel.
The rooms
The rooms are cosy and very Scottish, complete with tartan finishings and loch views. We stayed in the Grand Master (one of the best rooms in the house). Picture a free-standing bathtub, double showers, his and hers sinks, and the comfiest bed in town. The view alone is worth it. It's available from £212 per night (including breakfast), but if you're looking for something on the cheaper side there are quaint Deluxe Bedrooms from £118 per night which are even dog-friendly. If you want more of a staycation vibe, you could even splash the cash and book yourself into the apartment for £240 per night which comes with its own kitchenette, super king bed and living room.
Getting there
If you're arriving by car, getting to loch-side village of Fort Augustus is a highlight in itself. It's 35 miles from Inverness, 32 miles from Fort William and 55 miles from Aviemore, with spectacular views whichever way you drive. Spean Bridge is the closest railway station, and the hotel is close to both Inverness and Fort William which are served by the Caledonian Sleeper train. Prices start from £118 a night for a deluxe double room and good news for furry friends: the hotel welcomes pets.
It's worth every penny for this truly marvellous Scottish escape.
