Japan's £16 'Blanket Train' Experience: A Whimsical Winter Journey
Fifteen minutes into a two-hour train journey, darkness suddenly envelops the carriage. Without warning, two masked figures brandishing machetes emerge, leaning into passengers' faces with theatrical menace. This isn't the opening scene of a horror film but rather a typical moment aboard Japan's extraordinary Kotatsu Train, traversing the picturesque Sanriku Coast between Miyako and Kuji towns.
The Heated Journey
Operated by Sanriku Railway, this 60-mile route offers what might be the world's strangest rail experience. Instead of conventional seating, passengers bundle beneath warm kotatsu—traditional Japanese heated tables with attached blankets. Running exclusively from December through March, this seasonal attraction combines comfort with unexpected entertainment, including the machete-wielding performers who turn out to be costumed Namomi demons from local folklore.
For just £16 per adult ticket, travelers receive not only this unique seating arrangement but also refreshments and continuous surprises. Upon boarding, shoes must be removed and stored, adding to the distinctive atmosphere. The train's interior dazzles with decorative flags featuring dragon motifs, while enthusiastic staff wave animated farewells as departure commences.
Scenic Views and Sweet Treats
With capacity limited to under forty passengers, the journey offers intimate comfort even at winter's peak. Large, reflection-free windows provide stunning vistas of the Pacific Ocean glinting in sunlight, while frequent brief stops allow passengers to disembark and appreciate the coastal scenery. The region's beauty carries poignant weight, however, as the area suffered devastating earthquake and tsunami damage in 2011—a reality marked by numerous evacuation signs directing toward high ground.
Each passenger receives a charming train-shaped box filled with chocolates and biscuits, while those traveling the opposite direction enjoy full bento box meals. The journey features live Japanese commentary that, despite lacking English translation, enhances the sense of delightful unpredictability.
Cultural Demonstrations and Games
Beyond demon performances, the experience includes cultural showcases like watching one of Japan's few remaining craftsmen hand-shave kelp aboard the moving train. Samples distributed in festive paper boxes add to the celebratory atmosphere. The journey culminates in a communal rock-paper-scissors tournament announced by the train manager, with prizes awarded to the ultimate winner.
This playful environment evokes what one passenger described as "a seven-year-old's birthday bash"—complete with sweet treats, games, and constant surprises. Despite the childlike joy, the train notably carries few actual children, creating an unexpectedly adult-oriented celebration of whimsy.
Lasting Impressions
As the journey concludes, staff bow and shake hands with departing passengers, maintaining the theatrical hospitality throughout. The experience leaves such a memorable impression that even subsequent travel on Japan's famed 200mph Shinkansen bullet trains pales in comparison to the Kotatsu Train's unique charm.
This winter specialty represents more than mere transportation—it's a carefully crafted tourist experience blending regional traditions, scenic beauty, and pure, unadulterated fun. For travelers seeking unconventional adventures, Japan's blanket train offers an unforgettable journey where comfort meets carnival, all for the price of an ordinary train ticket.
