A Journey Through Time at The Grapes
Few locations on the planet blend contemporary life with rich history as seamlessly as London. Just a short walk from the towering skyscrapers of Canary Wharf, I discovered a pub that has stood on this very spot since 1587, when Sir Walter Raleigh's third expedition set sail for the New World from the Thames directly outside. The Grapes has occupied this prime location for nearly five centuries, and its enduring presence is palpable, having survived the rise and fall of countless other pubs across the capital over the years.
Literary and Historical Connections
Raleigh is far from the only notable British figure linked to this historic establishment. In 1661, Samuel Pepys documented a visit to lime kilns at a nearby jetty in his diary, just steps away from The Grapes. Charles Dickens was a regular visitor to the area and is believed to have featured the pub, barely disguised, in the opening chapter of his novel Our Mutual Friend. He described it as "a tavern of dropsical appearance... long settled down into a state of hale infirmity." During my visit, perched on a stool at a barrel table, I noticed a complete set of Dickens books arranged on the wall behind me, adding to the literary ambiance.
Other luminaries such as Oscar Wilde, Arthur Conan Doyle, and painter Francis Bacon are also reputed to have been drawn to this corner of London. The pub's walls are adorned with oil paintings, watercolours, and an impressive collection of books, creating a cultured and inviting atmosphere.
Modern Ownership by a British Icon
Today, The Grapes is associated with another British icon: Sir Ian McKellen. The celebrated knight and national treasure, best known for his role as Gandalf in Lord of the Rings and recipient of seven Olivier Awards, holds the lease to this historic pub. His involvement adds a layer of modern celebrity to its already rich tapestry of history.
Arrival and Ambiance
Departing Cardiff at 3:30 PM, I arrived at the pub by 6:00 PM. Emerging from the bustling Canary Wharf tube station, I quickly found myself in the quieter streets of Limehouse. The pub's exterior, with its colourful hanging baskets and inviting amber glow shining through frosted glass windows, proved irresistible against London's mid-autumn dusk. I congratulated myself on arriving before 6:00 PM, but every seat in the downstairs snug bar was already taken, sparking concern that my long-anticipated fish supper might be in jeopardy.
Fortunately, a narrow staircase hidden behind the bar led to a charming upstairs room, where a large wooden barrel served as a table. As darkness fell over the Thames and the Canary Wharf skyline beyond, I made my way downstairs to order my meal and a pint of Guinness.
The Dining Experience
At £6.15, the price of a pint still sends a shiver down my spine, as I vividly recall paying £1.10 in my youth. However, this is hardly extortionate by London standards. The fish and chips, priced at £18.50, felt like an absolute bargain given the stunning setting and ownership by a Hollywood legend. The dish arrived with a generous helping of mushy peas and a standard side salad of rocket, chopped cucumber, onion, and tomatoes.
There is little else to say about the food—it was thoroughly satisfying in an understated way. Notably, the fish and its delicate batter were entirely free of grease, leaving me feeling comfortable without any queasiness that can sometimes follow a heavy fish supper. The Guinness was excellent, complementing the meal perfectly.
Atmosphere and Final Thoughts
Ultimately, unless a pub or restaurant is built entirely around outstanding cuisine, these establishments thrive or falter based on the atmosphere they create. At The Grapes, I felt genuinely content and immersed in its historical charm. In fact, I can sum up the entire experience in just three words: gutted to leave. This visit was a perfect blend of history, culture, and modern comfort, making it a memorable outing in London.
