I have always despised camping. The very idea of it, with its damp sleeping bags, strange nocturnal sounds, and questionable bathroom facilities, felt like the absolute antithesis of a relaxing holiday. So, when the opportunity arose to spend a night under the stars in the heart of the Moroccan desert, I braced myself for what I assumed would be a character-building ordeal. What I found, however, was nothing short of a revelation.
The Journey to Erg Chebbi
My adventure began with a flight into Errachidia, a city in southeastern Morocco. From there, our group set off for Erg Chebbi, a breathtaking expanse of orange-gold dunes located near Merzouga and close to the Algerian border. As the dunes first materialised on the horizon, I immediately understood why filmmakers so often use this landscape to depict otherworldly realms. The sand seemed to glow with an inner light, and the profound, almost holy silence was a stark contrast to the cacophony of city life.
After a winding hour-long drive, we arrived at the edge of the dunes where a small caravan of camels awaited. Having ridden a camel before without much enthusiasm, I was prepared for a tedious plod. This experience, however, was entirely different. The animals roamed with an instinctive freedom, unshackled from a single file, and the deep silence of the desert allowed my own thoughts to quieten as I watched our long shadows drift across the sand.
An Unexpectedly Luxurious Camp
We were welcomed at the Bivouacs Xaluca camp with traditional robes and assistance settling into our tents. To my immense relief, my accommodation was far from basic. It featured a proper bed with sheets, soft lantern lighting, and a private bathroom area concealed behind a heavy curtain. While this ensuite lacked walls, it offered all the necessary amenities. The decor was simple yet inviting, complete with a small table and chairs positioned before the tent's window. Although air conditioning was available, the desert temperature was perfectly comfortable without it.
The first true test of comfort was the shower, which delivered perfectly warm water and was made even more enjoyable by the soft robe provided. Freshened up, I joined others in the communal tent, where Gnawa musicians created a hypnotic atmosphere with metal castanets. Dinner was a sumptuous feast of chicken skewers, roasted vegetables, lamb tagine, and yoghurt, all complemented by traditional Moroccan mint tea.
Starlit Skies and Nocturnal Nerves
After an evening of music and dancing, I climbed the central dune to gaze at the stars. With the day's clouds gone and far from any urban light pollution, the night sky was spectacularly clear, as if switched to high definition. The romantic spell was briefly broken by the evening chill and a small, uninvited cricket in my tent, which was promptly shown the door. This was my only encounter with local fauna, thankfully, and I remained diligent with my repellent spray.
I fell asleep with surprising ease, enveloped in near-total silence and darkness. Later, the wind picked up, rattling the canvas so vigorously it woke me, and for a moment I feared the tent might collapse. It held firm, and I awoke early to witness a stunning sunrise before breakfast, a truly incredible spectacle.
The Final Verdict: Is Desert Camping Worth It?
Would I recommend it? Yes, in a heartbeat. While I still loathe the idea of a tent in a muddy British field, my time in the Moroccan desert was a different experience altogether. It proved that comfort and wilderness can indeed coexist. The desert has a unique way of humbling even the most reluctant adventurer.
The cost for this experience ranges from £50 to £200 per person per night, which typically includes breakfast and transfers. Prices vary based on the level of luxury, the season, and extras like additional meals or activities. For travellers from the UK, the cheapest direct flights from London to Casablanca can be found from around £114 for a return trip in December, with options on Royal Air Maroc or British Airways. An internal flight from Casablanca to Errachidia with Royal Air Maroc costs approximately £60 return.
Pros: The experience offers unrivalled peace, incredible scenery, and genuinely enjoyable camel rides. On a clear night, the stargazing is phenomenal.
Cons: Unusual sounds at night can disturb your sleep, and you should expect a few insect visitors. The curtained bathrooms offer less privacy than some may prefer, and it's certainly not the place for amorous couples, as sound carries for miles.
Verdict: Even if the thought of camping usually makes you break out in hives, you should consider a night in the Moroccan desert. For me, it was the perfect compromise—adventurous, magical, and oddly humbling. It is absolutely worth trying.
