Just a half-hour drive west of Zagreb, the rolling green Samobor Hills offer a landscape that could out-Tuscany Tuscany, with Habsburg-era architecture, vineyards, and a rich culinary tradition that draws weekenders from the Croatian capital. The region's signature dessert, kremšnita, a thick custard slice topped with puff pastry and icing sugar, is best enjoyed in Samobor's main King Tomislav Square, according to locals from Dubrovnik who insisted it surpasses Zagreb's version.
Samobor: A Taste of Habsburg Croatia
Samobor, the prettiest town in Zagreb County, features handsome baroque houses in pastel shades of buttery yellow, apricot, and pistachio, adorned with stucco and lining narrow King Tomislav Square. The umbrella-shaded cafe terraces are filled with Croatians enjoying their morning coffee and conversation. The lush green Samobor Hills overlook the medieval town, through which the Gradna river-stream flows under wooden bridges decorated with flowers.
One bridge leads to the onion-domed church of Saint Anastasia, while another, with a fairytale wooden roof, accesses green spaces dotted with free red deckchairs bearing the slogan “Volim Samobor” (“I love Samobor”). The former home of 19th-century composer Ferdo Livadić, now the town's museum, adds to the air of gentle refinement. Livadić entertained artistic friends, including Franz Liszt, in this setting.
Hiking and Nature in Žumberak and Okić
The rolling green landscape is crisscrossed with forested trails, particularly within the Žumberak nature park, about 16 miles (26km) west of Samobor, where weekenders hike and bike among hornbeam, oak, and beech woods with bubbling waterfalls. At Potočna dolina Slapnica, near the Vranjak waterfalls, a path beside a series of cascades offers an accessible scramble.
Closer to Samobor, the hilltop ruins of Okić castle rise to nearly 500m above sea level, one of the best-preserved romanesque fortifications in the country. While the Mongols and Ottoman Turks couldn't defeat it, a hike to the top proved challenging due to a steep path of vertical tree roots, leading one visitor to turn back with a newly healed ankle. The castle remains on the list for a future visit.
The Plešivica Wine Road and Local Specialties
An easier path is the Plešivica wine road, where more than three dozen wineries are scattered on a heart-shaped route between the village of Plešivica (10 miles south-west of Samobor) and the town of Jastrebarsko. Vineyards cling to steep slopes between forested hills, many producing sparkling wine for which Plešivica is renowned. At Griffin Winery, Martina and Krešimir Ivančić, whose ancestors received a noble title from Austrian empress Maria Theresa in 1759, offer tastings of sparkling rosé made from portugieser grapes and full-bodied chardonnay, accompanied by cured meats and cheeses.
Local pastries include copanjek, a thin savoury pastry of cheese and greens, which Martina described as portable food for vineyard workers. In the village of Rude, about 10 minutes west of Samobor, rudarska greblica – filled with cheese and walnuts, carrots, or greens – were traditionally made by miners' wives. They have EU protected status and their own festival every July. At Pekarnica Nikl, Jelena and Andrejas Nikl are the only authorised bakers, with Jelena acknowledging the responsibility of maintaining the tradition despite the paperwork involved.
Michelin-Starred Dining and Seasonal Festivals
The Korak family's Michelin-starred winery and restaurant in Plešivica showcases the region's heritage, with brother Bernard as chef (having worked with Massimo Bottura and Ana Roš), sister Vera in front of house, and parents Velimir and Mirjana tending the vines. Grandparents still make cheese and pršut for the restaurant. Bernard grows as much as possible, sourcing the rest from local producers, including a farmer whose pigs are fed on kitchen scraps. A five-course tasting menu in June featured truffle tagliatelle and clams with green beans in caviar sauce, priced at €118.
The annual Wine Days festival in Jastrebarsko, scheduled for 25-27 September, will highlight autumn truffles and mushrooms, as the Samobor Hills welcome the change in season with local culinary delights.
