Marks & Spencer (M&S) will make its debut at London Fashion Week (LFW) this September, marking the retailer's 100th anniversary in the fashion industry. The British high-street staple will stage a catwalk show highlighting its latest women's and menswear collections, joining luxury labels like Burberry and Alexander McQueen on the official schedule.
Strategic Move to Shed Frumpy Image
Chief executive Stuart Machin said the decision to show at LFW is an opportunity to "showcase our designs on fashion's global stage" and is part of the retailer's broader transformation into a go-to fashion destination for high-street shoppers. The show will be livestreamed for customers at home, and unlike most luxury brands, the collections will be immediately available to buy online and in larger stores.
Laura Weir, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, described M&S as "one of the great icons of the British high street" that has played "an important role in the nation's retail and cultural story for generations."
Dumping the Frump
Speaking at the group's annual meeting in London on Tuesday, Machin said the retailer has successfully "dumped the frump" – a reference to a 2016 comment by former chief executive Steve Rowe about the brand's reputation for "frumpiness." Catherine Shuttleworth, a retail consultant and CEO of Savvy Marketing, said the LFW debut shows "a confidence around its fashion credentials."
Younger Audience Push
M&S has been actively courting a younger demographic, with trend-driven monthly product drops and viral social media items. Barrel-leg jeans, mesh jelly shoes, and lightweight funnel neck jackets have helped shift the age demographic from 55+ to customers in their 20s and early 30s. Maddy Evans, head of womenswear who joined in 2019, has been crucial to this turnaround.
On TikTok, videos such as "rate my M&S haul" and "unbox my M&S order" garner thousands of views. Trending items include kitten-heeled flip-flops similar to those worn by model Hailey Bieber, Chloé-esque floaty lace tops, and Missoni-inspired striped knitted dresses.
Recent Fashion Events
In June, M&S launched its summer collection with a fashion show in Ibiza, hosted by Chicken Shop Date presenter Amelia Dimoldenberg, featuring a see-through catwalk over a giant swimming pool. Last week, it took over the pit lane at Silverstone for a show hours before the British Grand Prix, with models walking against a backdrop of F1 garages.
Celebrity Collaborations and Market Share
These initiatives follow celebrity ambassador appointments including Gillian Anderson and Claudia Winkleman, sellout collaborations with actor Sienna Miller and designer Bella Freud, and stocking other brands like Nobody's Child and Ghost London. Retail expert Elizabeth Stiles said such moves have "elevated perceptions of the whole business."
M&S now holds just over 10% market share of total national clothing sales and has 12 million female customers. This is a significant turnaround for a retailer that fell out of the FTSE 100 in 2019 (returning four years later) and suffered a cyber-attack in 2025 that almost wiped out its profits.
Balancing Tradition and Trend
M&S's focus on younger shoppers has raised concerns among some shareholders about alienating traditional customers. During the AGM, Machin said a customer complained that dresses had become "all sleeveless" and "a bit skimpy," and his own 78-year-old mother noted tops were "getting a bit short." As a result, future pieces, including those on the September catwalk, will include items that "cover the tum, tops and bum."
M&S follows in the footsteps of Topshop, which became the first high-street brand to show at LFW in 2005. Cos will show at New York Fashion Week in September, while H&M opened LFW last September.
