During the pandemic, the author stopped saving sparkling wine for special occasions, instead opening bottles regularly to lift spirits amid grim news. This habit persisted, reflecting a broader trend: according to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, sparkling wine sales have grown faster than any other style, rising in value from €2.3bn to €8.5bn over the past 25 years. While a dip occurred in 2020, the overall trajectory is upward.
Why Crémant Stands Out
For many, bubbles are no longer reserved for celebrations, but budget constraints limit access to champagne or English sparkling wine. Prosecco is often too sweet unless mixed, and pét-nat isn't always suitable. Crémant, however, offers a brilliant alternative: it is made using the same traditional method as champagne—secondary fermentation in the bottle and ageing on the lees—but at a lower price. Rather than being a knock-off, crémant expresses the unique terroir of its region.
Regional Variations of Crémant
Crémants from different French regions showcase distinct characteristics. Crémants de Loire, with limestone soil and chenin blanc (often blended with chardonnay, cabernet franc, or pinot noir), offer zing and elegance. Bordeaux crémants, from warmer days and fuller grapes, bring generous, brioche notes. Limoux in Languedoc produces famously ripe styles, while Alsace crémants, with pinot blanc and chardonnay, make refreshing, aromatic fizz ideal for aperitifs or spicy food.
Five Recommended Crémants
Here are five crémants worth seeking out, according to the author:
- Crémant de Bordeaux (£10, Tesco, 12% ABV): A blend of semillon and merlot, expressive and refreshing, offering serious value.
- The Society's Celebration Crémant de Loire 2023 (£13.75, 12% ABV): From Saumur, fresh and mineral, with high chardonnay content for elegance and body.
- Cave de Ribeauvillé Les Comtes de Ribeauvillé Crémant d'Alsace Brut (£18, Majestic, 12% ABV): Smooth, orchardy, and subtly floral, pairing well with curries and spicy foods.
- St John Crémant de Limoux 2023 (£24, 12% ABV): A moreish blend of chardonnay, chenin, and local mauzac, made by Antech, a favourite producer.
- Domaine la Croix Montjoie Crémant de Bourgogne Brut (£24.50, Berry Bros & Rudd, 13% ABV): Complex and moreish, a blend of four Burgundian grapes, preferable to cheap champagne.
Conclusion
In an age of austerity, crémant proves that it is always time for sparkling wine, as long as the price is right. These selections highlight the diversity and quality of French crémant, offering affordable luxury for any occasion.
