From Novice to Snowplough: A Beginner's Ski Trip to Méribel
As a relative newcomer to skiing, my previous experience ended with an ignominious slide down a slope on my backside, leaving me wary of strapping on skis again. So, when an invitation arrived for a three-day learn-to-ski trip in Méribel, nestled in the French Alps, my initial skepticism was palpable. Yet, the dreary January weather outside my window proved enough motivation to dust off my old ski pants and embark on this alpine adventure.
The History and Charm of Méribel
Méribel, part of Les Trois Vallées in the Savoie region of southern France, boasts a rich history dating back to the 1930s. It was founded by Scotsman Peter Lindsay, a passionate skier and former British Army officer, who sought to create a British-friendly alternative to Austrian resorts under Nazi influence. Discovering the Méribel valley in 1936, he capitalized on its ideal terrain, central location, and traditional chalet architecture. Today, as the world's largest ski resort with 71 runs and 42 lifts, it retains its distinctive Alpine allure.
The resort is divided into several key areas: Méribel Centre, the main hub with restaurants, bars, and the L'Olympe gondola; Méribel Village, offering chairlifts to the scenic Altiport area and an aerodrome; Les Allues, the original village predating the ski resort; and Mottaret, the highest point at 1,750 meters, where I stayed at the cozy ski-in-ski-out Hotel Le Mottaret.
Day One: Mastering the Basics
After a morning yoga session in the Altiport forest with instructor Marcela Bemposta, I geared up with rental skis, boots, and a helmet from Sport Boutique. Our instructor, Anna from ESF UK ski school—which has 220 branches and 17,000 English-speaking instructors across the French Alps—guided our novice group. Starting on the "magic carpet" conveyor belt in Mottaret, I managed to reach the top without a fall, a small victory.
Anna demonstrated the snowplough technique, a braking maneuver where skis form a V-shape. After a few attempts and rides back up on the magic carpet, I more or less mastered it, skiing slowly to the bottom without incident. My legs, unaccustomed to the strain, were relieved by a hotel massage and soak in the outdoor hot-tub later.
Evening Entertainment and Day Two Adventures
That evening, we dined at Le 80, a brasserie in the luxurious Chaudenne Hotel, where I tried snails for the first—and last—time. Afterwards, Jacks bar hosted the Franglish Comedy Festival, an annual bilingual event, featuring a hilarious set by comedian Rob Rouse.
The next morning, we embarked on a snowshoeing hike through Altiport forest in Vanoise National Park near Courchevel. Guide Laurent from Raquette Evasion Snowshoeing pointed out animal tracks, such as roe deer and squirrels, though we missed sightings of wild boar or wolves. Lunch at Le Blanchot, with stunning mountain views, fueled us for our second ski session on a green slope nicknamed 'Little Himalaya'.
Despite its daunting appearance, Anna reviewed the basics, and we used a drag lift to ascend. With her assistance—me holding onto my ski poles as she skied backwards—I made it halfway down before finishing on my own, improving my style from the previous day. A third session on Little Himalaya still required Anna's help, but I felt more confident and open to future ski holidays.
Final Day and Après-Ski Highlights
On the last day, we took the Saulire Express gondola to La Folie Douce, an après-ski bar in Méribel Courcheval, where chic skiers enjoyed champagne amid live music and dancers. The festive atmosphere included "ski angels" to escort overindulgent guests back to their chalets. Thankfully, I avoided needing one and returned without sliding on my bum this time.
Travel Facts and Practical Information
For those inspired to visit, Inghams and Crystal Ski Holidays offer ski packages from £1,082, including flights, seven nights of self-catering accommodation, and airport transfers. Beginner group lessons with ESF start at £207 per person, while rooms at Hotel Le Mottaret begin at £199 per night. Hampton by Hilton airport hotels offer rooms from £75 with breakfast via HolidayExtras.com. Guided snowshoeing hikes with Raquette Evasion Snowshoeing cost from £33 per person, and a six-day ski pass in low season starts at £321. For more details, visit www.meribel.net.
