Festive crowds descended on London's ancient Smithfield Market this week, battling for bargains at its famed pre-Christmas meat auction. The lively event marked a celebratory return, being the first held since the future of the historic market was secured with a confirmed relocation plan.
A Chaotic Festive Tradition
The annual spectacle, a highlight of Smithfield's calendar, sees butchers sell off unsold festive meat at heavily discounted prices. This is not a quiet, orderly affair. Would-be buyers wave cash and crowd around traders, who hurl sizeable chunks of meat into the throng.
Despite being called an auction, there is no formal bidding process. It operates on a system of cold, hard cash and trust, as money is passed forward to butchers on a stage who then send the purchased meat back through the crowd. This year, the event proved more popular than ever, with butchers reportedly selling out in just over two hours.
The event has evolved into a proper show, with attendees often dressed in festive outfits like turkey hats and holding humorous signs. One regular buyer, a former London restaurateur, said she attends every year and this time managed to secure "what looks like a leg of pork."
Securing a Historic Future
The vibrant atmosphere carried extra significance this year. Smithfield Meat Market and Billingsgate Fish Market, both dating back over 800 years to medieval London, had faced an uncertain future. The City of London Corporation, which runs them, had considered permanent closure before proposing a £1 billion move to Dagenham last year—a plan that was later abandoned.
That uncertainty has now been resolved. The Corporation has announced the markets will be moved to a new location on a disused island near City Airport in Newham, east London. The move is pending approval from Parliament and planning permission from Newham Borough.
Meanwhile, the current Grade II listed Smithfield site in Farringdon will be revamped, with the London Museum aiming to move into part of the complex. The Billingsgate site is set to be transformed into much-needed apartments near Canary Wharf and Poplar.
A Win for Traders and Londoners
Greg Lawrence, owner of family butchers G Lawrence Meat at Smithfield, explained the auction's history: "We've been doing this over 40 years. My father started it to clear meat, but now we buy meat in. It has gotten bigger and bigger every year." He highlighted the value, selling premium beef, Welsh lamb, and English pork at around a third of the usual price.
Commenting on the relocation plans, Chris Hayward, Policy Chairman of the City of London Corporation, stated: "We are investing in London’s future... We are laying the foundations of future economic growth. Redeveloping the current market sites will contribute billions of pounds in economic growth, thousands of new jobs and thousands of new homes."
He described the plan as a "win-win for Traders and Londoners," ushering in a new era for the historic markets while delivering growth and housing for the capital.
