In the weeks since the fragile ceasefire with the US and Israel took hold, life in Tehran has – on the surface at least – largely returned to something like prewar normality. Many security checkpoints have been removed, coffee shops are bustling, parks are filled with people picnicking, musicians perform again on the streets, highways are congested with traffic, and the metro – free since the war – operates at full capacity.
However, underlying worries remain deep-seated, with many Iranians fearing that the war could reignite at any moment. The uncertainty was underscored on Monday when the US and Iran launched fresh attacks in the Gulf, amid an ongoing blockade of the Strait of Hormuz. The economic toll of the war has been severe, with widespread job losses and surging inflation. The International Monetary Fund estimates that inflation could reach 70% this year.
Personal Stories of Struggle
Sara, a 24-year-old art teacher, lost her job at an after-school centre when it closed at the start of the war on 28 February. Since then, she has had no income, no severance pay, and little savings to fall back on. Online job platforms – still accessible through Iran’s restricted local network despite the wider internet shutdown – are flooded with people seeking work. As a teacher, Sara knows her prospects are slim, as schools have moved online and after-school centres remain closed.
“I spend my free time with friends, or on the phone with my boyfriend in Canada,” she said, but admitted that fears of renewed war and inflation weigh heavily on her.
Across Tehran, many residents are cutting back on expenses or opting for free activities. Parks are crowded with people playing games and exercising, while restaurants are noticeably quieter. Larger bazaars are busy with people buying essentials or trying to earn a living. “Many vendors in the market had to shut down because of economic difficulties. The situation is very unstable,” said Sina, a 25-year-old jewellery maker in the Grand Bazaar.
Resumption of Work
For some, work has partially resumed. Mohammad Reza, a 32-year-old high school Arabic teacher who also works at a private university-prep institute, has returned to teaching online since the ceasefire. “My students are happy to be in class again, even the ones who were never particularly interested,” he said. “The war has been exhausting for them and they genuinely want to be together, even if it’s just in front of a screen.”
Alongside food and medicine, tuition fees at the private institute have risen. “Families are still willing to invest in their children’s education, but it’s not easy,” he added.
Political Repression Continues
Political repression persists, with more than 20 people executed on national security-related charges since late February, many linked to January protests. The UN High Commissioner for Human Rights, Volker Türk, expressed being “appalled that on top of the already severe impacts of the conflict, the rights of the Iranian people continue to be stripped from them.” Iran’s judiciary chief, Gholamhossein Mohseni Ejeai, defended the executions, stating authorities would “not neglect … the legal punishment of criminals whose hands are smeared with the blood of our people.”
On the streets of Tehran, however, executions are rarely discussed. “Everyone’s tired and exhausted from the war,” said a woman speaking on condition of anonymity. “Most people are worried about their incomes and the economy. We know about the executions, but there are no protests, nothing. We’re just trying to live our lives.”
Shifting Perspectives
Sara, who participated in the Woman, Life, Freedom demonstrations in 2022, said the war has shifted her perspective, leading her to join anti-US protests. “I’ve always been critical of my government,” she said. “But since the bombings and destruction, I’ve realised who our real enemies are, and we have to resist them.”
Tensions between Iran and the US remain high. Negotiations have stalled, and Washington’s recently announced “Project Freedom” – intended to escort stranded cargo ships through the Strait of Hormuz – risks further escalation.
On Enghelab Street, one of Tehran’s main thoroughfares, none of this is visible. Jammed with traffic and home to bookshops, cafes, restaurants, and the city’s largest university, people stroll past shop windows and catch up with friends. Ali, a 38-year-old bookshop employee, said the transformation from deserted streets at the height of the war to something resembling normal life has been overwhelming. “I don’t think the ceasefire will collapse,” he said, perhaps trying to convince himself. “There will be no more war.”
