Chanel presented its autumn/winter 2026-27 haute couture collection in Paris, drawing inspiration from fairytales. The first model wore a sheer mousseline skirt suit and carried a miniature leather-bound book of fairytales that once belonged to Coco Chanel. The show, set to the Lord of the Rings soundtrack, featured giant poppies and lupins on stage.
Storytelling Through Design
Creative director Matthieu Blazy incorporated narrative elements into the garments. A dress featured buttons depicting an ugly duckling transforming into a swan. A Goldilocks minaudière handbag was shaped like a golden sleeping bear. The lining of a jacket was hand-painted with a scene from Puss in Boots.
Blazy told reporters that his favorite fairytale was Coco Chanel's own rags-to-riches story. 'She climbed the ladder to find her golden goose, by making clothes for real women. Her clothes were never parodies. They were rooted in life,' he said.
Diverse Cast and Special Moments
The show featured models of all ages, including Stephanie, who celebrated her 50th birthday walking the Chanel catwalk in a red sequined dress. Blazy described it as 'a super-beautiful moment for us backstage.' He added, 'I love the way the older women move in the clothes, and I love the mentorship and conversation they have with the younger kids.'
The traditional wedding dress finale was replaced with a 'revenge' dress, a simple black dress that Blazy said channeled Coco Chanel's spirit. 'Gabrielle never got married,' he explained.
Everyday Fashion and Emerging Trends
Blazy emphasized the importance of everyday fashion: 'We love doing red carpet, dressing Teyana Taylor or Nicole Kidman, but for me fashion is about the adventure of the everyday. Fashion is not about the big 'wow' dress, it is clothes that you fold and put in your suitcase.' To illustrate this, the lining of a jacket featured to-do reminders and shopping lists hand-embroidered on yellow silk by the Parisian house of Lesage.
The collection showcased emerging trends, including sheer layers with sturdy knickers and bra tops under semi-transparent clothes. The silhouette was untucked, with fluid skirts and billowing blouses. Nostalgic pastel shades of lilac and mint offered a fresh alternative to minimal neutrals, echoing Dior's haute couture show earlier in the week.
Commercial Success and Future Plans
Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel's president of fashion, called it 'the best show ever' in haute couture, praising the storytelling. Demand for the new slouchy '25' bag is strong, rivaling the classic flap-closure shape. However, Pavlovsky noted challenges in finding and training a growing workforce for Chanel's ateliers.
Despite recent acquisition of shirtmakers Charvet, Pavlovsky confirmed Chanel has no plans to enter menswear or hospitality. 'We are not dressing men. We are not in hospitality; we are not opening Chanel restaurants. We are not trying to compete with Vuitton. We are not listed; we don't have the pressure to do everything. Everything we do is about fashion for women,' he stated.
