When you think of ancient English cities, the mind usually goes to places like Cambridge or Bath. But as a history graduate, I am here to make the case for why York – a 2,000-year-old Roman city – is the most historically fascinating place in the country. And, more specifically, why a Bridgerton-style Grade II-listed manor on its fringes is the perfect base for exploring it. Here is how I got the best of York’s history in a weekend visit.
A Slice of Times Gone By
We start our journey to the past at Middlethorpe Hall, a William and Mary-style country house that dates back to 1699. From antique-filled drawing rooms and nods to diarist Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, who saved the place from dereliction in the 18th century, it is a brilliantly preserved slice of times gone by. Originally built for Sheffield ironmaster Thomas Barlow, who wanted a country home near the then-fashionable city of York, the building was restored as a luxury hotel in 1980. Set in 20 acres of parkland, the 29-bedroom hotel and spa still retains its 18th-century appearance with high ceilings, chandeliers and fine paintings that make the place feel more like a private residence. It exudes stately home, old-world glamour, from the huge four-poster bedrooms to the immaculate landscaped gardens.
Setting Up for the Day
A spectacular Yorkshire breakfast (including the best black pudding I have ever eaten) steels for a day of learning, and then it is on to the city. Middlethorpe is a 15-minute drive to York’s ancient centre, a treasure trove of medieval streets and Viking legacy that is catnip for history lovers. First stop: The Shambles. York’s most iconic street is famous for its preserved 14th-century timber-framed buildings with overhanging upper floors. Now a trendy Instagram spot, the Shambles have a gruesome past, dating back to Anglo-Saxon times, when the streets and intersecting alleys were used as an open-air slaughterhouse that hosted many butcher’s shops. Its winding cobbled alleys are said to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, but these days, perhaps the less said about that the better.
York Minster and Clifford’s Tower
Towering over the city, York Minster is impossible to ignore. This imposing church has been a centre of faith and devotion since the 7th century, so long ago it is difficult to fathom. Another vantage point is Clifford’s Tower, the largest remaining part of York Castle, which captures sweeping views of the streets below. Wrap up the history lesson with a stroll around York’s 800-year-old-ish city walls. These Roman walls, erected in 71 AD and said to be the oldest in England, encircle the city like a fortress. While you can easily walk them in a day – it is 3.4 km the whole way round – take a coat and brolly, even if the weather app says there is sunshine. In York, it often rains. I learned the hard way.
Ghosts and Feasts
Brain bursting with knowledge, it is back to Middlethorpe for a feast of a three-course tasting menu (£85). Service is taken seriously at Middlethorpe Hall. There is a real sense of history in the dining room, with its original panelling and candlelit settings. All is sublime, but the crab tortellini and the Guinness brown bread stand out. It would be wrong to visit York and skip its much-loved ghost tour. The city is said to be the most haunted in Europe, and as you walk the narrow alleyways after dark, you really do have to remind yourself that ghosts are not lurking behind every corner. I am told that in one bar, staff are too scared to lock up alone. Windows and doors often slam shut in the early hours when no one is around. Settle the nerves with a tipple at The Red Lion, a 16th-century black-beamed boozer. It is quintessential York, a city once rumoured to have a pub for every day of the year. Then it is out on the town to enjoy a music scene that nearly rivals Dublin. York is a bit like the lobby of the Rock Hall of Fame. The Killers, Kasabian, Biffy Clyro and Peter Doherty all gigged here before they made it big. The Fulford Arms and The Stone Roses Bar are not to be missed.
A Fairytale Ending
After a night of good food, buzzy bars and ghostly tales, it is time to retire back to Middlethorpe Hall, which – illuminated in the dark – looks like something out of a fairytale. As I cast the ghost stories from my mind, I doze off, imagining what life must have been like here, hundreds of years ago.
