In recent years, I've dedicated myself to discovering the towns and villages right on my doorstep. I'm lucky enough to call Kent home – famously dubbed the Garden of England – which means I'm absolutely spoilt for choice regarding stunning towns and villages. One destination that consistently pulls me back is Royal Tunbridge Wells. My most recent trip was my third visit to the town – and it certainly lived up to expectations.
Located merely 30 miles from London, this historic spa town has become a favoured location for commuters and boasts a rich heritage stretching back to the Iron Age. Its celebrated chalybeate spring transformed it into a fashionable retreat during the Restoration period, attracting visitors seeking its healing waters and the legendary Pantiles.
A Town of Distinction
Today, tourists still arrive in droves, enticed by the Pantiles – a stunning Georgian colonnade situated at the town's centre – alongside its independent shops, distinctive cafes, eateries, bars, and, of course, the chalybeate spring. What truly distinguishes the town is its rare 'Royal' title, a privilege held by just three towns across England. King Edward VII granted this prefix in 1909 to acknowledge its enduring appeal among the Royal Family.
Considering all of this, it's hardly surprising that Tunbridge Wells earned recognition as one of Britain's best places to live for 2026 by Muddy Stilettos. The town received acclaim for its thriving art galleries, yoga studios, diverse range of shops, easy access to London, and naturally, the celebrated Pantiles. The publication stated: "Forget those letter-writing retired colonels: this spa town now pulls in well-families chasing a best-of-both-worlds commuter lifestyle. With yoga studios, art galleries galore and the Garden of England's apple orchards on the doorstep, this town has it all." The town also secured 10th place in the UK's Better Lives Index last year.
Exploring the Town
While the weather proved somewhat unreliable throughout my visit, I capitalised on the driest day to wander through the town centre and absorb the surroundings. For the rest of my time there, I unwound at The Spa Hotel – a historic sanctuary nestled within 14 acres of stunning grounds just outside the town centre. This marked our third visit to the hotel, which has emerged as something of a personal favourite, owing to its tranquil spa amenities, exceptional dining choices, welcoming team and luxurious accommodation. During this particular stay, I had the opportunity to wander the grounds and uncovered stunning rural vistas, a pond and spring blooms on the verge of flowering. Little wonder the hotel has established itself as a sought-after wedding destination, something we observed first-hand on our second day there.
The striking hotel boasts a restaurant and bar, a heated indoor swimming pool, a fitness centre, steam room, sauna, and a newly opened Wellness Suite. So, should the weather prove unsuitable for venturing into the town centre, there remains plenty to do within the hotel itself. During earlier visits, snowfall and thunderstorms confined us indoors throughout the weekend, yet with room service, superb spa facilities, and an inviting bar, I wasn't overly disappointed to remain inside.
The Pantiles and Chalybeate Spring
The town ranks easily among the most picturesque I've visited. The Pantiles particularly stand out – a collonaded walkway that feels like stepping into another era, with the majority of its buildings originating from the 18th and 19th centuries. The majority of shops and cafés lining the Pantiles are independently owned, with personal highlights including Collared, a boutique dedicated to dog accessories and gifts; Trevor Mottram, a specialist kitchenware retailer; and the wonderfully cosy café Eggs Eleven.
On this particular visit, we finally sampled the celebrated water from the chalybeate spring. Positioned at the far end of the Pantiles, a vending machine dispenses glass bottles of this distinctive, iron-rich mineral water, renowned for its singular taste. First discovered by Lord North in 1606, the mineral spring swiftly garnered a reputation for its extraordinary restorative properties, purportedly capable of curing everything from illness and infertility to hangovers and obesity. In 1629, the Queen of England consumed the spring water and subsequently gave birth to Charles II, who was widely credited as owing his very existence to these celebrated waters. The spring drew further royal admirers, among them James I, Queen Anne, and Queen Victoria. The water itself tasted remarkably pure – considerably better than tap water or most bottled waters, entirely free from the usual chemical aftertaste. The glass bottles also make delightful mementoes, ideally suited for repurposing as vases or candleholders.
Dining and Shopping
The remainder of the day was spent leisurely wandering through the town, perusing shops and basking in the sunshine. For those with a penchant for retail therapy, Tunbridge Wells delivers in abundance, from independent boutiques through to well-established names such as Anthropologie, Space NK, LUSH and Fenwick, many of which are situated within the town's shopping centre, Royal Victoria Place.
Following a full day exploring the shops, we headed to Roddy Burger, a locally-owned independent restaurant celebrated for its freshly prepared dishes. Being among the first customers for the day, we selected a succulent chicken burger, a halloumi burger, fries, and beer-battered pickles. Both burgers proved exceptional, accompanied by a non-alcoholic lager for myself and an ale for my husband. It was my initial experience with battered pickles, and I was genuinely impressed by their flavour – the savoury, sharp pickle paired beautifully with the crispy batter. The team were really welcoming, while the restaurant's unique décor and lively music gave it a chilled-out, casual vibe. Should you be seeking an informal dining venue, I'd certainly suggest paying it a visit.
While I didn't manage to visit Halstead Bakery during this occasion, I've consistently heard wonderful things about it. Situated on the same road as Roddy Burger, this independent bakery has earned recognition for its artisan bread, pastries, and baked treats crafted using local, seasonal produce. It holds an impressive 4.8 out of 5 rating on Google, with customers commending its "incredible pastries and great coffee." One review states: "Delicious fresh bakes with innovative and vibrant flavour combinations. We've had so many different things from this bakery - the croissants are crispy, puffy and cooked to perfection; their speciality scones are not to be missed; and the cardamom buns are fragrant and moist. Friendly atmosphere and helpful staff. Highly recommend!"
I've also popped into Fine Grind on the High Street during a previous trip – a delightful coffee shop that boasts it's been serving "the best brews in town for 13 years," as stated on its Instagram. The coffee truly is outstanding, particularly when accompanied by one of their cakes or pastries. A word of warning: it becomes incredibly busy at weekends!
Getting Around
One of the most appealing aspects of a Tunbridge Wells visit is the convenience of getting around. Frequent buses operate to and from the town centre, while trains reach London in approximately 45 minutes. Although my journey exceeds two hours from the Kent coast, those travelling from Canterbury, Ashford, or Maidstone can arrive within 60 to 90 minutes, depending on their chosen route. The local taxi services in Tunbridge Wells are excellent, though Uber operates in the vicinity too if you've got the app.
A Note on Local Atmosphere
Despite my fondness for visiting Tunbridge Wells, one aspect repeatedly lets me down: the unfriendliness of the locals. While hotel and hospitality workers are invariably pleasant and accommodating, I encountered a rather less welcoming ambience around town. People frequently barged past without acknowledgement or failed to say 'thank you' when I held doors open, which left me feeling somewhat unwelcome. Hailing from a small town, I'm accustomed to a warmer environment where people smile while passing and chat at the checkout. Perhaps I'm simply unaccustomed to the more distant character of larger towns, where residents are less acquainted with each other.
If you're contemplating a leisurely staycation this summer, Royal Tunbridge Wells makes a superb destination – ideal for retail therapy, exploring attractions, or merely relaxing without venturing far. Just bear in mind, the welcome from residents might be somewhat chilly...
