A staycation in Edinburgh was sold to my mum as a gentle getaway: nice hotels, good food, and fresh air. What we actually experienced was a five-star floating hotel, food fit for royalty, and the discovery of a hidden city. By the time we returned by train, she had already declared Edinburgh her new favorite UK destination. The cherry on top? It earned me the title 'Son of the Year'. Here is why.
Old World Glamour
Edinburgh offers a rare mix of a proper city break—architecture, history, and great restaurants—without the chaos of London. It is compact enough to explore on foot yet varied enough that every corner feels different. From London or other major UK cities, it is an easy journey by rail or plane that still feels like a real getaway.
Our trip started at the Fingal Hotel, a destination in itself. A short cab ride from the station to the Port of Leith leads to the gangway. Since 2014, this former lighthouse vessel has been transformed into a five-star floating hotel. Greeted at the door, you are transported to bygone days of old-world luxury. The ship features 23 cabins, from standard rooms to multi-room suites, a double-height ballroom, and a restaurant with 2 AA Rosettes. It even hosted Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in 2019.
Our twin room was small but comfortable, with quirky curved flooring and a porthole window. Each room is named after Fingal's history; ours was 'Muckle Flugga', after a small island in the Shetland Islands. Outside, the historic Port of Leith has evolved into a vibrant neighborhood with independent cafes, boutiques, and buzzy bars. Even if not staying at the hotel, I highly recommend The Lighthouse restaurant for its service and menu—order the parsnip soup.
Taking the City in Style
After an indulgent night onboard Fingal, we swapped sea views for a two-night stay at The Rutland Hotel, checking into a spacious two-bedroom apartment. At the west end of Princes Street, the location is unbeatable, with Edinburgh Castle one way and George Street the other. The apartment was abnormally large, stylish, and practical, with a full kitchen, open-plan living area, and two proper bedrooms.
The Ultimate Edinburgh Itinerary
Even for a day, there is much to see and do. Start with breakfast at The Huxley, then head to the city for shopping—a mix of high-street names, boutiques, and gift shops. For Scotch lovers, visit stores on the Royal Mile and take home a small-batch bottle. After that, see Edinburgh Castle from the outside for a great photo spot. Stroll down Victoria Street and the Royal Mile, where cobbles, colorful shopfronts, and medieval surroundings feel like a living postcard.
A stop at St Mary's Close is a must. This underground tour (£25pp) offers a fascinating glimpse into the city's hidden past. Descending beneath the Royal Mile, the atmosphere shifts to darker, colder, and steeped in stories. The guide brings centuries-old tales to life, from plague outbreaks to cramped lives of former residents. Look out for the room of dolls and the story about the King's security dogs. If visiting in daylight, walk past Holyrood House and take in the exterior.
For dinner, head to Badger & Co, where the food and service are incomparable. The Pinot Noir was so good my connoisseur mother took a photo of the bottle. For night owls, squeeze in Monkey Barrel Comedy Club, a beloved local spot for upcoming and seasoned acts—a perfect low-key end to a great weekend.
In the end, it wasn't the floating hotel or royal-approved restaurant that stuck with me. It was the way Edinburgh wraps everything around a simple idea: a relaxing, funny, lightly boozy weekend with my mum that still feels like a proper holiday. A few landmarks, a lot of laughs, and one very photogenic bottle of wine were all it took. And that Son of the Year award? It should be in the post any day now.
