Zylia, a grand Greek and Cypriot taverna in Covent Garden, has earned a 4 out of 5 star rating from Time Out London. Located at 6 Bedford Street, the restaurant occupies a Renaissance-style building constructed in the 1870s as a department store, now attached to the Arcade food hall. High ceilings and bashed brick walls retain historic grandeur, while white-washed walls, raffia, stoneware urns, dried flowers, and a breezy Mediterranean energy create a low-key taverna atmosphere.
Background and Concept
Zylia is the latest venture from former Kiln head chef and current co-owner of Singburi, Nick Molyviatis, and restaurateur Barry Karacostas. Molyviatis was raised in Athens, and Karacostas is of Cypriot heritage; Zylia aims to marry the two cuisines in a central London location. The menu features both Greek and Cypriot influences, starting with a bread basket offering grilled and oiled Cypriot bread and Greek pita puckered with oregano.
Starters and Small Plates
A spicy feta and yoghurt dip with an undercurrent of roasted chilli is described as enticingly textured, perfect for piling onto the bread. Smokey coal-roasted aubergine with sweet peppers is elegantly plated, resembling a posh ceviche. Bouncy fried balls of Greek metsovone cheese are crunchy and glistening on the outside, stringy and pliable inside, drizzled with thyme honey for elegance. Wild prawn saganaki—cooked in a small frying pan—features juicy shrimps on a tangy tomato and tahini sauce, with creamy sesame adding savoury punch to the sweet seafood.
Main Courses and Sides
A routine Greek salad and exceptional golden fries, more akin to roast potatoes than chips, accompany the main event: a whoppingly large and perfectly pink pork chop cooked on a charcoal grill, placed atop a flighty fennel, pepper, and olive relish. The meat is described as sweet, unobtrusive, and tidy, suitable even for an open-minded baby.
Dessert and Drinks
The only dessert is a glass dish of sturdy kaimaki ice cream that hums with earthy mastic, dolloped with sour cherries. The review notes it is divine but one between two is plenty. The drink menu includes Greek wines, Cypriot beer, and creative cocktails such as a martini topped with feta cheese. Time Out recommends the Baklava Spritz and Metaxa-addled Custard Pie as sweet alternatives to end the meal.
Overall Impression
Time Out calls Zylia an effortless new addition to Covent Garden’s coterie of great restaurants, attributing its success to the team in charge. The vibe is described as buzzy and rowdy, typical of a central London taverna. The food is traditional Greek and Cypriot-inspired plates, with a focus on charcoal-grilled meats and mezedakia.
