Paul, a reader, asks: Why are my scones always dry and tough? And any fun flavour ideas?
Light Touch Is Key
Applying a light hand is crucial. Verena Lochmuller, head of product development at Ottolenghi, advises: “Always use a knife to cut in whatever fat you’re using. It’s OK to have a few lumps, too.” She also recommends checking your leavener: “If it’s old, get a new one.” Lochmuller prefers baking powder plus baking soda or bicarb, as “you’ll get more air bubbles from the bicarb, but you need something to react with it.” Her liquid of choice is buttermilk, kefir, or soured cream let down with a little water.
Liquid Volume Matters
Insufficient liquid can cause dry scones, says Anna Higham of London’s Quince bakery and the soon-to-open Clementine. “Depending on the weather and how old your flour is, it will absorb different amounts of liquid on different days,” she explains. It’s not just about following a recipe: “It’s also about how the dough feels.” Generally, the wetter the dough, the better, according to Lochmuller: “People think if it’s wet, it’s going to be heavy, but it’s actually the opposite.” Add liquid slowly rather than all at once.
Minimal Kneading
Although recipes often suggest gentle kneading, Lochmuller says it’s unnecessary: “Flour a workbench, dump the dough on top and dust it with flour. Pat it down to smooth the surface, then go in with a cutter, which has also been floured so it doesn’t stick.”
Bake at High Temperature
Baking should be hard and fast, Lochmuller insists: “None of this 180C fan business; 200C fan (425F/gas 7) minimum.” Higham tests her scones like a sponge cake by inserting a skewer: “If you want to get all technical, it should be 92C on a thermometer.”
Creative Flavour Ideas
You can add almost anything to scones. Higham enjoys a devilled cheese number: “Use a nice mix of cheese – grated cheddar, blue and parmesan, say – then add equal parts smoked paprika, cayenne and mustard powder to taste.” For Lochmuller, savoury scones are all about herbs: “Whether you go heavy on the coriander, parsley, chives, dill or basil, there’s really no herb that won’t work.” Spices like za’atar work well, and cheeses such as cheddar, gruyere, feta, grated halloumi, or even brie add “nice bits of squidge”. Cold roast potatoes are also great: “Don’t laugh, but if you smash them with the heel of your hand and fold into the dough with salt, pepper, za’atar and cheese, you’ll get lovely bits of texture.”
Sweet Scone Variations
For sweet scones, Lochmuller adds dried fruit: “Dried blueberries or strawberries are nice for pops of sweetness, and I add a little polenta to the flour for crunch.” Fresh summer fruit is bountiful, but “be aware of how much liquid they’re going to add”, cautions Higham, who is partial to blackcurrant-seeped scones.
