Thursday 30 April 2026 5:22 am | Updated: Thursday 30 April 2026 10:54 am
Old School Glamour Returns to The Langham with Sale e Pepe Mare
By: Anna Moloney, Deputy Comment and Features Editor
White tablecloths are making a comeback in London's dining scene. After nearly two decades dominated by small plates and industrial decor, a shift towards old-fashioned glamour is underway. Diners are once again seeking splendour, beauty, and a sense of occasion. This trend is evident in glitzy imports like Carbone from New York and the celebrated reopening of Simpson's on the Strand. Although some may view it as a recession indicator, many welcome the change. Sale e Pepe Mare, the newest restaurant at The Langham hotel, exemplifies this return to fabulousness.
The Vibe: Laidback but Ultra Glamorous
Sale e Pepe Mare is brought to you by the team behind the original Sale e Pepe in Knightsbridge, which became a celebrity hotspot after its 1974 opening, thanks partly to its proximity to Harrods. The Langham iteration retains the Italian luxury spirit but focuses on seafood and adds theatrical elements like roaming champagne trolleys and tableside service. The restaurant occupies the space formerly home to Roux at the Landau and later Mimosa, the latter lasting only five months. Sale e Pepe Mare proves that even beautiful rooms can be marred by poor interior choices. Replacing the mottled burgundy carpets from Mimosa with light woods and soft blue upholstery has transformed the space. Big arched windows line one side, mirrored by a statement bar that serves as the room's centrepiece. The atmosphere is laidback yet glamorous, feeling special without being stuffy. On a Thursday night, the restaurant was packed and buzzing.
The Food: Comfort Italian Dishes with a Side of Theatre
The menu balances classic and innovative dishes, featuring favourites from the original Sale e Pepe alongside new seafood options inspired by the Italian coastline, from the Amalfi Coast to Puglia. Starters include the Otoro Toast, a tried-and-tested item with fresh bluefin tuna on mini brioches, garnished with confit garlic, chilli, and tomato. Heartier antipasti options include cast-iron grilled prawns, which are fat, pink, and deliciously seasoned, and Josper-baked scallops, tender and sweet with a smoky, caramelised crust, served on the shell. While delicious, the scallops come at nearly £15 each.
For pasta, classics shine. The king crab tagliarini is tasty, but the cacio e pepe is a better value at £16 less. It is rich and flavourful, and a white-blazered waiter tosses it in a pecorino wheel tableside. The theatre does not compromise the dish; one guest declared it the best pasta he had ever had. All pasta dishes can be ordered as a starter or main. The grilled tuna steak main was satisfactory but unremarkable; diners might prefer the fish of the day or the wagyu ribeye.
Dessert is a crowd-pleaser with the restaurant's large, famiglia-style homemade tiramisu, served tableside from a massive dish. Roughly 80% of diners order it, inspired by seeing others enjoy it. The tiramisu is velvety, sumptuous, and a perfect finish to a marathon meal.
Sale e Pepe Mare is located at 1 Portland Place in The Langham hotel.
