Papas arrugadas, often translated as "wrinkly potatoes," are a beloved snack from the Canary Islands, typically enjoyed with drinks rather than as a side dish. These salt-crusted spuds are a testament to the region's potato history, as the first potatoes reaching Europe passed through the Canaries from Peru. The rocky soils of the islands are similar to the Andes, fostering a long cultivation tradition. While many unusual early varieties are still grown locally, the Canaries also import potatoes from the UK, like King Edward and Arran Banner, known locally as quinegua and arambana. For this recipe, choose new season potatoes with thin, delicate skins, small enough to cook whole. Cooked in salty water until salt crystals cling like frost, they are served with a fiery dipping sauce reflecting Portuguese and African influences.
The Potatoes
In the UK, peak Jersey Royal season is ideal, but any small new season local spud with delicate skins works. The skins should rub off with a fingernail. In a pinch, smooth-skinned waxy older potatoes (salad potatoes) can be used, though they won't wrinkle as well.
The Salt
Originally, potatoes were cooked in seawater, but now coarse salt is standard. Fine salt can make them unpalatably salty, so avoid it. The amount of salt may seem shocking: a good compromise is about a sixth of the potato weight (e.g., 100g coarse sea salt for 600g potatoes). Not all salt ends up on the plate, only the crystals that cling. Cooking in highly salted water gives a creamier texture and more intense potato flavor due to osmosis.
The Method
Two main approaches exist: first, boil potatoes until tender, drain, then toss over low heat to wrinkle and coat with salt. Second, cook until water evaporates completely, but this risks overcooking. The recommended method: place potatoes in a wide pan in a single layer, add salt, and almost cover with cold water. Cover with a clean cloth or cabbage leaf and lid, bring to a boil, then simmer for 15-25 minutes until cooked. Drain, return to pan over low heat, shaking until coated in salt. Serve immediately or wrap in a tea towel until ready.
The Mojo Picón
Mojo means marinade or sauce, deriving from Portuguese molho. Papas arrugadas are often served with mojo picón, a spicy red sauce with chillies, garlic, and vinegar. For the sauce, toast cumin seeds, grind with salt, then pound garlic and mild red chilli to a paste. Add sweet smoked paprika, cayenne pepper, and vinegar. Gradually beat in olive oil. Adjust seasoning, noting the saltiness of the potatoes. A mini chopper or stick blender can simplify preparation.
These potatoes are excellent as a starter or nibble, and pair well with plain barbecued meat or fish. For a fish accompaniment, consider offering mojo verde as well.
Perfect Papas Arrugadas Recipe
Prep: 10 min | Cook: 20 min | Serves 4
- 600g small new potatoes, all roughly the same size
- 100g coarse sea salt
For the mojo picón:
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 1 pinch salt
- 3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
- 1 mild-medium red chilli, stalk, pith and seeds removed, flesh roughly chopped
- 1 tbsp sweet smoked paprika
- 1/4-1/2 tsp cayenne pepper, to taste
- 50ml vinegar (not balsamic or malt)
- 150ml olive oil or neutral oil
Give the potatoes a scrub if necessary, but do not peel. Put them in a wide pan just large enough to hold them in a single layer, add salt, and almost cover with cold water. Cover with a clean cloth or large cabbage leaf, then put the lid on. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15-25 minutes until cooked through. Meanwhile, toast cumin seeds in a dry pan until fragrant, grind with a pinch of salt. Using a pestle and mortar, pound garlic to a paste, then add chilli, paprika, cayenne, and vinegar. Gradually beat in oil. Alternatively, use a mini chopper. Drain potatoes, return to pan over low heat, shaking until coated in salt. Serve immediately with mojo picón.
