Rachel Roddy's orecchiette with courgettes, parmesan cream and almonds marks the return of courgette season, using the vegetable as the centrepiece for a cheesy and peppery pasta sauce. The recipe was inspired by leftover parmesan cream from mortadella sandwiches, which improved the dish significantly when two large tablespoons were beaten into a soft-savoury cream with the texture of toothpaste.
Celebrating Courgette Season
This recipe welcomes courgettes back to the northern hemisphere, acknowledging that while they are available year-round, the proper season is something to celebrate. More courgettes appear in gardens, market stalls, and veg boxes, and soon gardeners will talk about gluts, cooks will threaten chutney, and food magazines will provide 101 ideas. But Roddy advises not to jump ahead.
Choosing the Right Courgette
Roddy looks forward to the pale green and white speckled romanesco variety, which is ribbed like a corinthian column with a flame-like flower. Its dense, creamy flesh has little water, making it ideal for boiling and sautéing, sometimes requiring additional water to keep it moist. Another favourite is the warm-yellow gold rush, whose buttery flesh with notes of pumpkin is sweet and savoury. Most smooth-skinned, dark and pale green varieties hold more water, so cooks should allow excess water to evaporate during cooking.
Parmesan Cream Variations
Most soft cheeses work for this recipe, including cream cheese, mild goat's cheese, robiola, or even double cream. Roddy suggests adding three tablespoons of finely grated parmesan for every two tablespoons of cream cheese, but advises tasting and adjusting. Lots of black pepper is recommended, along with lemon zest, dried oregano, or minced parsley. Finishing the pasta with the sauce, adding starchy pasta water to loosen, and allowing the sauce to reduce and cling to the pasta is key. An extra handful of grated parmesan at the end can thicken it further.
Recipe: Orecchiette with Courgettes, Parmesan Cream and Almonds
Prep: 5 minutes. Cook: 15 minutes. Serves 4.
Ingredients:
- Salt and black pepper
- 3 large courgettes
- 450g orecchiette or other small pasta
- 2 tbsp cream cheese, robiola, or double cream
- 3 tbsp finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve
- 1 garlic clove, peeled and bashed
- 5 tbsp olive oil
- 1 handful flaked almonds, lightly toasted
Method:
Bring a large pan of water to a boil for the pasta. Top and tail the courgettes, then finely dice (about 3mm x 3mm) so they will sit in the ears of the pasta later. Add salt to the boiling water, stir, then add the pasta and set a timer according to packet instructions. In a small bowl, mix the cream cheese, parmesan, and black pepper to make a paste. In a frying pan or wok large enough to accommodate the pasta later, on a medium-low heat, gently fry the courgette and bashed garlic clove in the olive oil, aiming to soften rather than brown the veg. If needed, ladle in some pasta cooking water to keep it moist but not watery. Turn off the heat while waiting for the pasta. When the pasta is a minute from being done, return the courgette pan to the heat and stir in the cream cheese mixture. Once the pasta is al dente, use a spider sieve or slotted spoon to lift it directly into the courgette pan (or drain and add). Toss vigorously so all elements come together; if watery, keep cooking and tossing until the sauce thickens. Divide between bowls, top with flaked almonds, and serve with more grated parmesan for those who want it.
