Barbecued Sweetcorn in India
Karan Gokani, chef and founder of Hoppers, recalls the iconic barbecued sweetcorn sold by women on Mumbai's Marine Drive during monsoon season. The corn is grilled over charcoal stoves, then rubbed with lime dipped in a salt and chili mix. Gokani notes that while some vendors now offer butter and cheese versions, the traditional preparation of freshly grilled corn with lime and chili remains his favorite. He describes the experience as simple yet deeply evocative of his coastal roots.
Crab and Banana Pastels in Brazil
Ixta Belfrage, chef and recipe developer, highlights Brazil's diverse beach food traditions. In Rio, grilled prawns, oysters, and queijo coalho are common, but she prefers Salvador's African-influenced dishes like pamonha—a cornmeal tamale filled with meat or cheese. Her standout memory is a crab and banana pastel, a fried pasty combining sweet and savory flavors, eaten with hot sauce and Guarana, Brazil's national soft drink.
Custard Doughnuts in Portugal
Marcelo Rodrigues, head chef at Primeur in London, describes the beloved bolas de berlim—custard-filled doughnuts sold by vendors on Portuguese beaches. Introduced by German Jews during WWII, these fluffy, sugary pastries are now a staple along the coast near Lisbon. Rodrigues notes the tradition of sharing one doughnut among family, and the mystery of vendors who appear from May to September, carrying fresh doughnuts through the sand.
Fresh Coconut Pulp in Mexico
Adriana Cavita, chef and founder of Cavita in London, extols the simple pleasure of fresh coconut pulp sold by women on Mexico's Pacific coast. After drinking the coconut water, vendors split the coconut and scoop the pulp, seasoning it with lime, salt, and chili powder or hot sauce. She craves this sweet, spicy, acidic snack in the UK, where it is unavailable, emphasizing its freshness and suitability for hot weather.
Seasoned Rice in Antigua
Kareem Roberts, chef and cookbook author, shares the authentic Antiguan beach dish of seasoned rice—a one-pot seafood rice with salted pork as a key ingredient. Variations include salt fish, beans, octopus, cockles, or pigeon peas. He recalls a memorable version with chewy octopus, fluffy rice, wilted spinach, and seasoning peppers, served in a styrofoam container with a plastic fork. Roberts insists that eating from a plate would not be authentic.
Fried Red Mullet in Cyprus
Hasan Semay, chef and presenter, contrasts Istanbul's mackerel sandwiches with Cyprus's fried red mullet. The fish, lightly coated in semolina or cornmeal, is grilled or deep-fried and served with onion, rocket, salt, and lemon juice. Semay remembers his father enjoying the dish with sunburned shoulders and fish grease on his hands, noting that red mullet is affordable in Cyprus compared to Michelin-starred restaurants, and its flavor evokes prawn shells smoking over a barbecue.
