Maria Grazia Chiuri's Radical Return to Fendi Marks a New Chapter
Eight months after her departure from Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri made a triumphant return to fashion's front bench with her highly anticipated debut at Fendi during Milan Fashion Week. The Italian designer's first catwalk show for the Roman luxury house was stamped with her distinctive identity and values, signaling a significant moment for both the brand and the industry.
A Celebration of Matriarchal Heritage
The catwalk was painted with the surprising motto: "Less I, more us," setting the tone for Chiuri's vision. Backstage, the designer explained that she wanted to celebrate Fendi's proud matriarchal heritage, which has been led by four generations of women in the family. "This is about the female way of doing fashion, and also the Italian way of doing fashion, which is about sharing ideas, craftsmanship, and working in freedom," Chiuri stated.
Chiuri's leadership marks an interesting dynamic at the Roman brand where founder Adele Fendi was succeeded first by five daughters, then by granddaughter Silvia Venturini Fendi and great-granddaughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi. Despite being an external hire, Chiuri framed herself as an upholder of Fendi tradition rather than its disruptor, drawing on her Roman roots and decade-long experience at Fendi as a young designer.
Modern Feminism Meets Practical Style
Just as Chiuri's "We Should All Be Feminists" T-shirt in 2016 began a pivot from ladylike femininity to modern feminism at Dior, her Fendi debut focused on shaking off rich-lady aesthetic codes and engaging with modern women's lives. The collection featured practical, wearable pieces that reflected contemporary realities.
Models walked in oversized black blazers, jeans paired with trenchcoats, and cargo pants with trainers. Several models carried two bags in commuter style: a cute handbag accompanied by a tote for overspill. Chiuri herself wore the same style of oversized black blazer as the first model, emphasizing her personal connection to the collection.
Addressing Fendi's Fur Heritage
As a house that began as a fur specialist, Fendi faces contemporary challenges with this heritage. Chiuri addressed this by using only archival fur on the catwalk and introducing a new atelier where clients can bring vintage furs to be repurposed. "Fur is very durable," she explained. "To me, fur can be about the softness and sensuality of Fendi."
Echoes of Lagerfeld's Radical Spirit
The show channeled the bracing, radical spirit that Karl Lagerfeld brought to Fendi when he was hired in 1965 as a then little-known Paris designer. Lagerfeld, who would later achieve fame at Chanel, streamlined and radicalized Fendi, designing the now-iconic double F logo that stood for Fun Fur.
Chiuri's collection featured evening gowns worn with Karl-coded starched white collars rather than twinkling necklaces, and striped scarves printed with a "5 SISTERS" slogan that declared terraces-style allegiance to the Fendi family. The designer's personal history with the house was evident, as she is credited as a co-designer of the iconic Baguette bag during her time in Fendi's accessory studio in the 1990s.
The Baguette's Return and Commercial Considerations
The Baguette bag took center stage in the show, with a particularly striking red-and-ivory zebra striped, bugle-beaded version featuring a snake print strap. The iconic accessory will likely benefit from fashion's version of the new manager bounce under Chiuri's creative direction.
In a recent interview with American Vogue, Chiuri noted the gendered perception of commercial success in fashion: "When a male designer has a big number, he has a business sense. But if a woman designer does a big number, it is because she is commercial." This comment underscores the significance of her achievement at Dior, where revenues almost quadrupled during her seven-year tenure, and sets expectations for her new role at Fendi.
Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fendi debut represents more than just a collection; it's a statement about heritage, gender, and the evolving nature of luxury fashion in the modern era. By blending Fendi's storied past with contemporary feminist values and practical design, Chiuri has positioned the Roman house for a new chapter that honors its history while looking firmly toward the future.
