The Centre Pompidou-Metz, an architectural masterpiece designed by Shigeru Ban, draws inspiration from a traditional Chinese bamboo-woven hat, featuring a hexagonal lattice of laminated wood and a draped white fibreglass roof. This stunning building, which opened in 2010, occupies a site once home to a Roman amphitheatre, adding a layer of historical depth to its modern design.
A Journey Through Art and Wonder
Inside the Centre Pompidou-Metz, visitors are greeted by a six-metre skeleton of a domestic cat named Felix, a sculpture by Italian visual artist Maurizio Cattelan. This piece is part of the Dimanche Sans Fin (Endless Sunday) exhibition, curated by Cattelan, which showcases over 400 works from Paris's Centre Pompidou. The exhibition explores various interpretations of the "day of rest," ranging from Picasso's playful Little Girl Jumping Rope to Max Ernst's strategic King Playing with the Queen.
Zoé Stillpass, co-curator of the exhibition, highlights the unique opportunity to work with pieces from the Paris Pompidou, noting that Cattelan's famous banana exhibit, which challenges notions of artistic value, has its own dedicated space. In a room focused on artists' portraits of their mothers, Cattelan's Shadow depicts his mother hiding in a fridge, a humorous nod to the pressures of Sunday cooking.
Metz's Rich Architectural Heritage
Metz boasts a diverse architectural landscape that predates the Pompidou-Metz. The city's Germanic Imperial Quarter, constructed between 1905 and 1908 during Kaiser Wilhelm II's occupation, features the Metz railway station, resembling a church with its stained-glass windows, carved pillars, and mosaics. Nearby, a stately water tower once serviced steam engines, adding to the area's historical charm.
In the old town, Place Saint-Louis retains its 14th-century stone arcades, now housing cafes and restaurants with terraces spilling into the square. The Renaissance-era Maison des Têtes, dating from 1529, showcases detailed busts above its leaded windows. A free electric shuttle bus conveniently connects these attractions, making exploration effortless.
Modern Design Meets Fantasy
Philippe Starck's Maison Heler, a design hotel that opened in March, stands as a testament to Metz's innovative spirit. The hotel features a turreted mansion house perched atop a nine-storey tower block, inspired by a novella about a lonely postwar inventor named Manfred Heler. The story, which involves an earthquake lifting the house, influences the hotel's decor, including a pink bistro restaurant inspired by a milkmaid named Rose.
Bedrooms and corridors exude an industrial vibe with neutral tones and concrete walls, adorned with black-and-white photos of Manfred's scientific experiments. Stained-glass windows by Ara Starck cast a beautiful glow across the wood-panelled restaurant and cocktail bar. Despite its meticulous design, the hotel remains affordable, with excellent dining options such as white asparagus with hollandaise and cod with pea broth.
Cultural Highlights and Local Flavours
The Cathédral Saint-Étienne, built in the 13th century from yellow Jaumont limestone, is Metz's most imposing monument. It houses over 6,500 square metres of stained-glass windows, including modern works by Marc Chagall from the 1960s. Vivienne Rudd from the tourist office points out Chagall's depiction of Adam and Eve, with abstract lines and ethereal figures, adding a contemporary touch to the historic structure.
For a unique perspective, a solar-powered boat trip along the River Moselle offers views of the city's monuments, including a Japanese Torii gate and the Temple Neuf with its steel-grey roof tiles. To fully appreciate the city's charm, locals recommend trying mirabelle eau-de-vie, a plum-based spirit, before revisiting the cathedral's intricate windows.
Metz, with its blend of ancient history and cutting-edge design, provides a refreshing alternative to more familiar French city breaks. From the thought-provoking art at the Pompidou-Metz to the whimsical narrative of Maison Heler, this city in the Lorraine region continues to surprise and enchant visitors at every turn.
