Does the heart of London's affluent SW1 postcode truly require another upscale Italian dining destination? According to the packed tables and buzzing atmosphere at Martino's on Sloane Square, the resounding answer is yes. This hot new all-day brasserie, the latest venture from restaurateur Martin Kuczmarski, has swiftly become a scene of "beautiful bedlam" since its opening late last year.
The Kuczmarski Touch: Glamour as Standard
Stepping into Martino's is an exercise in engineered escapism, a hallmark of Kuczmarski's approach. Patrons familiar with his Mayfair establishment, The Dover, will recognise the commitment to a specific kind of old-school, glamorous hospitality. The experience begins in a cleverly designed reception area, a cocoon-like space that elegantly separates waiting guests from the main dining room, solving a queueing problem many diners never knew they had.
Inside, the trattoria aesthetic is dialled up to eleven. White tablecloths, ox-blood floors, and candlelight set the stage, while an elegant central bar invites guests to sip Garibaldis or Negroni Sbagliatos. The lighting is flattering, the cutlery is pretty, and the overall effect is one of fragrant, glitzy retreat from the outside world. It's a place designed for seeing and being seen, though the review wisely cautions against bringing an illicit lover—suggesting the more discreet half-booths at the rear instead.
A Menu of Accessible Italian Classics
The menu at Martino's is reassuringly familiar, designed not to intimidate. It comfortably straddles the line between classic trattoria fare and crowd-pleasing dishes you might find in popular chains, featuring margherita pizzas, tricolore salads, and veal Milanese. While the vibe and aesthetics might initially seem to take precedence, the food holds its own.
Highlights from a Saturday lunch service included a perfectly balanced tonno tonnato (seared tuna in a caper sauce) with warm focaccia, and tortellini in brodo served with an extra jug of its delightful broth. The house tagliatelle came with a soft, braised short-rib ragu carrying pleasing notes of chilli and parmesan. A dramatic, bone-in veal Milanese, described as a snack for the God of Thunder, caters to heartier appetites.
Not every dish was flawless. The branzino all'acqua pazza (sea bass in 'crazy water') was deemed to need more punch in its tomato sauce, though it was served with excellent garlic and chilli broccoletti. Desserts continue the theme of generous, unpretentious indulgence, with crespelle al pistacchio—a semi-warm crepe filled with pistachio sauce and ice cream—reportedly being sold "by the shedload."
The Verdict: A New Hub for Glamorous Convenience
Located at 37 Sloane Square in The Willett Building, Martino's has leveraged its fantastically convenient location and heady reputation to instantly become a fixture. It is poised to settle in as a prime spot for glamorous pre-theatre dinners and gossipy evenings well into 2026, as well as a de facto canteen for well-heeled locals.
With prices starting from around £60 per head for three courses à la carte, plus drinks and service, it offers an experience that transcends the meal itself. In essence, Martino's succeeds through a powerful alchemy of deftly placed napkins and strategically served spaghetti, achieving its core mission: making ordinary people feel, temporarily, like movie stars.
The restaurant is open all week, with lunch from noon to 2.30pm and dinner from 5.30pm to 10.30pm (10pm on Sundays).
