At the age of 50, journalist and author Adharanand Finn embarked on an extraordinary journey of self-discovery and physical endurance: running 1,400 miles around the entire island of Ireland. What began as a personal pilgrimage to connect with his ancestral homeland evolved into a profound exploration of landscape, community, and the limits of human stamina.
The Call of the Ancestral Land
Finn, the son of Irish parents, had visited Ireland many times during his childhood summers. Yet, he felt he knew only a fragment of the country. Seeking a deeper connection and a unique way to travel, he devised a plan to run a continuous loop from Dublin, his mother's birthplace, south to Cork, then north along the iconic Wild Atlantic Way past his father's home county of Galway, through Donegal and Northern Ireland, before finally turning south to finish back in Dublin.
The journey was supported by his wife and 15-year-old son, who followed in a motorhome, providing food and shelter each evening after his daily runs. Over just under 10 weeks, Finn averaged over 20 miles per day, traversing a breathtaking and varied terrain.
Scenery, Struggle, and Serendipity
The physical and mental challenge was immense. Finn ran through rolling farmlands, along dramatic coastlines like the Cliffs of Moher, and over mountains, sometimes without seeing another person all day. One particularly symbolic ascent was up Kerry's Knocknadobar, one of Ireland's holy mountains. Following the Stations of the Cross path in the rain, he found parallels between the biblical struggle and his own, leading to a moment of clarity where he cast off his burdens of fatigue and low mood. Miraculously, the clouds parted to reveal a stunning seascape, lifting his spirits.
The journey was punctuated by moments of sublime beauty and hidden gems. He experienced the pointy, lush mountains of the Beara Peninsula, the rare native forest of Glengarriff Nature Reserve, and the extraordinary basalt columns of the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. He took cooling dips in places like Derrynane Beach's white sands and the serene Poulanassy waterfall in Kilkenny.
The Unforgettable Warmth of the Welcome
While the landscapes were stunning, it was the people who left the most lasting impression. The famed Irish hospitality proved to be no cliché. Locals frequently joined him for stretches of his run, making the miles pass easily with conversation. He and his family were regularly invited into homes for meals or offered places to stay.
This openness was epitomised when a fuse blew in their motorhome one evening. Finding a closed hardware shop, Finn knocked on the proprietor's door—an act he said he'd never dare in England. The man happily opened up, found the correct fuse, and refused any payment. This spirit of generosity was a constant companion, as was the traditional music found in timeless, wood-panelled pubs hosting spontaneous 'trad sessions'.
The pilgrimage culminated in Dublin, where about 30 runners from across the country joined him for the final leg along the River Liffey. They sang 'Molly Malone' at the top of their lungs, finishing at Ha'Penny Bridge to the bemusement of tourists, before celebrating in a pub with a well-earned Guinness.
Finn concluded that his impressionistic journey revealed a country at ease with itself, in no rush, always ready for a cup of tea, a chat, and a bit of music. He had set out unsure if he could run such a vast distance, but returned with the overwhelming feeling that Ireland had taken him in and looked after him every step of the way.
