San Marino may be one of the world's smallest nations, but its steep terrain offers a surprising challenge for hikers. On a recent trip, I decided to walk the entire length of this micro-country in under five hours, discovering its rich history and scenic beauty along the way.
The Journey Begins: From Italy to San Marino
San Marino, founded in 301 AD, is a sovereign state nestled west of Bologna, Italy. My friend Jane and I flew from London to Bologna with British Airways and Ryanair, then took a train to Rimini. After a brief stop to see the Arch of Augustus, Italy's oldest Roman arch, we boarded a bus to Hotel Main Street, where we stayed for just over £60 a night, including breakfast.
An Unusual Start: Dining at a Petrol Station
Arriving without dinner, we found limited food options nearby and ended up at Amici Fun Station, a petrol station that doubles as a bar and restaurant. We made do with Italian snacks and drinks before resting for the night, preparing for the hike ahead.
Crossing the Border and Into the Countryside
We set out at 8 am, crossing into San Marino just after daylight. Near the border, the area has an industrial feel, with factories and tax-free shopping outlets. As we walked further, highways gave way to park trails and quiet roads, winding past olive groves and farmland.
Reaching the Historic Heart of San Marino
Our goal was to reach the historic centre, perched high on Monte Titano at 739 meters. This old town, added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2008, is a rare example of a preserved medieval city-state. Three medieval towers—Guaita, Cesta, and Montale—sit dramatically along the ridgeline, offering magnificent lookout points.
Hiking in January brought crisp 8°C air, but thick fog obscured the views throughout the day. Despite the sun's efforts, visibility was poor, making it difficult to see the road ahead or the structures above us when we reached the historic centre after about three hours.
The Challenging Climb to Monte Titano
Ascending Monte Titano involves tackling steep, narrow, stone-paved streets that twist up the mountain. The climb is demanding, but the city is dotted with cafés, restaurants, and scenic viewpoints, providing perfect spots to pause and catch your breath.
Unfortunately, Jane and I had no views to enjoy due to the fog, so we plodded on to the summit. The gloomy weather meant we had the medieval city almost to ourselves, with only a few other tourists around.
Exploring the Towers and Museums
After reaching the top, we visited the towers. Guaita and Cesta are accessible for €11, with tickets also granting entry to museums and palazzos across the city. Montale, built in the 14th century as a strategic lookout, is smaller and can only be viewed from the outside.
After resting and navigating ancient walkways, we began our descent, with another couple of hours to reach the far end of San Marino.
The Final Stretch: A Quest for Pasta
For the final part of our trek, I had found a restaurant near the border that looked authentic, with truffle tagliatelle catching my eye in Google photos. The walking became less arduous, but mizzle—a fine mix of drizzle and mist—encouraged us to pick up the pace.
After wandering through leaf-lined tracks and boggy roadways, we reached the end of our trek, only to find no restaurant in sight. Panicked, we pressed on and finally spotted a dishevelled sign for Ristorante La Locanda, emerging from the mist.
A Celebratory Meal to End the Day
Run by a husband-and-wife team, this homely eatery served local dishes at reasonable prices. Jane and I celebrated our country crossing with truffle tagliatelle, ravioli, a caprese salad, and a bottle of wine—all for just €45. The owner, Diego, treated us to hazelnut meringue, fruit cake, and shots of fruit liqueur on the house.
Reflections on a Rewarding Trek
Walking the length of San Marino proved a richly rewarding endeavor, combining rolling countryside, medieval monuments, and a memorable meal. Despite the fog and challenges, it was an adventure filled with history and hospitality.
For those inspired to try their own crossing, San Marino offers a unique blend of natural beauty and cultural heritage, all accessible in a day's hike.
