Finnish Lapland in summer offers a raw travel experience that remains one of Europe's best-kept secrets, according to Metro's Video Editor Chris Rickett. Forget the winter magic of snow and Northern Lights; summer brings swamps, midnight sun, and biting insects, but also unparalleled solitude and authentic cabin culture.
The Allure of Summer Lapland
Rickett describes being drawn to a cabin in the woods, reminiscent of a cherished childhood memory. At age nine, he stayed in a traditional summer cabin in Finland, with no electronics, days spent on the lake, and undisturbed hammock naps. Now in his thirties, he ventures solo to Skýra Retreat in Rovaniemi, Europe's largest town by area, to experience a luxury yet authentic wilderness escape.
The retreat is built around a former 1950s village schoolhouse that closed in 2005. As a protected building, original features remain. Guests can book former teachers' chambers or log cabins, dine in the old gymnasium, and experience flickering lights, occasional power outages, and chugging oil heaters. The interior design blends Mad Men mid-century style with a Twin Peaks setting.
Midnight Sun and Sleep Disruption
From June 6 to July 7, guests experience zero darkness under the midnight sun. Skýra's founder Susanne Hulbekkmo explains, 'It's about resetting. Your body will tell you when it's tired.' Despite blackout curtains, Rickett found himself enjoying rare lie-ins and being active after midnight. 'Lapland has eight seasons, not four,' he notes, accepting sleep schedule changes for a brief summer romance before darkness returns.
Finnish Air Force training occasionally brings F-35 fighter jets overhead. Hulbekkmo embraces this: 'One of the reasons why there was a school in this particular place is because of the army. A lot of the children who have been growing up in this school has been the children of the army people, so it kind-of belongs. It's always been here and I hope it will always be here.'
Mosquitoes and Mindfulness
Summer brings mosquitoes, midges, and black flies. Skýra's location with fewer leafy trees allows breezes to reduce the worst swarms. Deeper in Rovaniemi forestry, it's 'unpleasant but not dangerous,' according to the official line. Bites do not carry disease. Hulbekkmo recommends sitting with a net and listening to the insects as a mindfulness technique. Rickett finds every bite worth the uninterrupted silence of reading to an audience of trees and critters.
Authentic Wilderness vs. Instagram Reality
Kelly Forbes, CEO of responsible luxury travel agency A'Aru Collective, told the BBC that clients have complained about birds waking them in the Seychelles, villas too close to the ocean in the Maldives, and animals brushing against tents in Kenyan safari reserves. At Skog Aurora Igloos in Swedish Lapland, a guest noted the silence was so complete it made ears ring.
Environmental psychologist Dr. Sonja Haustein, professor at the Technical University of Denmark, questions: 'Do you really want to travel somewhere remote, or is it really about how you want to see yourself and want to be seen by others? If you're seeking status, maybe there is a more comfortable way to do it than going completely off-grid.'
Practical Essentials
Finnair flies direct from London Heathrow to Helsinki (up to 28 flights weekly), and from Manchester and Edinburgh. Transfers to Rovaniemi take as little as 40 minutes, with up to six daily flights year-round. Return flights from London Heathrow to Rovaniemi start from £253 in Economy and £677 in Business Class. Skýra Retreat provides free transfers from the airport, a 20-minute drive away.
Skýra Retreat opens for one exclusive weekend from 18–21 September 2026 and plans its first proper summer season in 2027. Log Suites are available at a September rate from £685 per night, including daily wellness sessions, return airport transfers, table-served breakfast, afternoon coffee, access to the Nordic Spa, and 24/7 guest services. Bookings can be made at skyraretreat.com or through Small Luxury Hotels of the World.
